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New build questions...


Frying Pan

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Hi

 

Starting on the Diff yestersay - filed the groove (Look, you have to start somwhere!) and layed the propshaft in the tunnel.

 

This morning, after some good tips from Charles Elliott (Cheers mate!) I loosened the filler plug so as to make it easier to undo when the diff is in place. I also took a long while making sure the bottom bolts fit. The threads in the diff are horrible - full of crud, so with lots of Copaslip everywhere, I ran the mounting bolts in and out cleaning the threads (and turning the diif on it's side to empty the crud out each time), adding another full turn or two each time. I now have two bolts that go in relatively easily on the floor... The top bolt goes in OK ish with no Diff in situ (rubber hammer came in handy though).

 

Is it feasible to fit the diff on your own? It doesn't balance on my trolley jack at all, and I don't want it falling off. What is the best method *confused*

 

On another topic, I went for no spare wheel carrier, but I don't seem to have a mounting bracket for the number plate light. The wire is there, but how do I attach? Could someone take aphoto of the bracket (preferable from below the car to show me what it looks like and where it is attached.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

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Hi Guy,

 

The diff is a bit of a pain because not only do you have to lift it into place, but when it is there you need to centre it. Charles managed on his own (I think) but I had help with mine.

 

Use a jack to take the weight and once the front bolts are in you can raise it to the top.

 

I put a 1/4" metal bar through the top fixings (because it is loose it is easy) while I worked out the spacing washers. When the diff was centred I pushed the top bolt through thus pushing the metal rod out as it went and picking up all the correct washers! It worked well. The top bolt was a bit of a struggle to get through the last bush but rather than just smack it - if you have someone who can look through the bush from the opposite side, they can see if the bolt is lining up, then with a meaty screwdriver they can lever the insert of the bush around until it lines up. Does this make sense?? I think I put a picture or two of the diff process on the webpics.

 

To be honest, I think fitting the diff was one of the most awkward bits in my build - you'll have a better time once this is done!

 

As for the back light - acording to the manual it should already be fitted if you have no spare wheel carrier! *confused*

 

See some photo's of the build here

 

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Ahhh, the old diff fitting problem. It scares the living daylights out of you in that you get thinking 'if I can't fit the bloody diff, how will I build the rest of it *confused* *confused*).

 

Don't worry, as Steve says its one of the trickiest bits. The chassis bushes are welded in place and as with any hot process, when the steel cools down, it tends to pull the alignement slightly out. Steves plan is the best way, get the top hung on an undersize bar, then concentrate on getting the bottom bolts in, diff centred and and washer-ed up correctly. It helps a lot if you file a starting taper on the bottom bolts. Oh and make sure the top bolt has a good chamfer on the leading edge. Mine wasn't and the bolt was slightly oversize which hampered progress somewhat *mad* *mad*. A replacement from the factory (with nice lathe turned chamfer *cool*). That one went through a treat.

 

darren f

 

The Building of R300SEV is Here

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I did fit it on my own, but used a Black & Decker workbox plus some bits of wood to get it to the right height. I didn't have a suitable bar so used the actual top bolt to hang it from, but it was getting the bottom bolts in that was the real pain. It doesn't help that on my car with plumbed in extinguisher, you can't remove the boot floor.

 

Good luck Guy

 

Charles

---

My Caterham Academy 2004 Diary

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I agree with all that's been said so far.

I used a long 1/2 drive extension to hold the diff in place at the top fitting while I got the bottom bolts in.

I removed the wood and aluminium honeycomb floors and used my engine crane to suspend the diff in position - did it on my own, but I'd have hated to do it without the engine crane 😬

 

Loosening-up the threads while it was off the car was a master stroke - much easier *thumbup*

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

 

Edited by - Tony C on 11 Oct 2003 14:29:49

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Update...

 

Bob Heywood phoned to see if he could come over and see the new baby. With his help (thanks Bob - that's another one I owe you *thumbup*), we got the diff in place very easily. How you did it on your own Charles I'll never know!!

 

As recommended on Blatchat, we suspended the top mounting temporarily (screwdrivers 😳) and worked on centring the bottom end. At this point, we were joined by Mr Toad (his lovely Superlight is currently for sale) for a while. He wanted a 'one screwdriver job' to do, but as they were both in use, he'll have to come over again 😬.

 

Eventually centred the bottom (I reckon to less than 0.5mm) and I'm now working on the top bolt. This is way out off centre, and doesn't want to shift far. Perhaps I'll slacken the bottom bolts off a bit to get some movement back...

 

If this is the worst bit, fine by me 😬 Hope to have it done by tomorrow. I'm off to Silverstone to drive Se7ens at midday though, so may need to do family stuff for a while now *wink*

 

Thanks all!

 

Myles - see you Tuesday / Wednesday!!

 

Guy

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Another update...

 

Backed off the lower bolts to give me some play in the diff.

 

Managed to get the top a bit more central. I can get 3 washers in the RHS, but at least 4 (and maybe a thin 'shim' washer in the LHS). Got the long bolt all the way through eventually (rubber mallet, brute force and trolley jack *eek*), but should I take it back out and try to get it more central 🤔 I think it is the bottom which is more crucial, but would rather get it right if I can!

 

With Bob's help, got the upper balljoints tight too, so not a bad day all in all...

 

Super7 - Welcome any time. Send me a mail. Will we see you Tuesday (Aynho) and Wednesday (Brewery) ?

 

Cheers

 

Guy

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Try half filling old biscuit tin with cement , plastic sheet

then support diff in this on top of trolly jack. Jack diff into

position ,use previous advice on use of rod or screwdrivers.

Allow cement to set whilst filing a taper on your bolts (make

sure to put a nut on first ) remove nut and slight adjustments

can now be made using the trolly jack , oh I forgot cut a round

hole in bottom of tin to allow cement (stiff mix) to form around

jack head . If anyone want's mine /5 speed tested !Ihave no

further use . Harold

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Charles

 

The pump is in the tank I think. I believe the bit that is missing is the fuel filter - it was in the cockpit and has a note saying the O-rings are missing... no shortages my 🙆🏻!

 

Also need to find out about the number plate light bracket - nowhere to be seen. Any chance of a photo of yours so I'm sure what to look for?

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

See some pictures of the build here

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Guy, just been looking at the pictures - your are off to a good start!

 

A couple of observations:-

 

Your nosecone is different - it seems to be made to go over the lower wishbone bolt heads - is that the case? Obviously the roll bar is different, doesn't look to have the same number of mounting points on the front uprights. Were the side screens already fitted? Mine weren't! Also, my diff was already modified so I didn't have to take a file to it.

 

Keep up the good work - I am doing my first service today. *cool*

 

 

See some photo's of the build here

 

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Grubbster

 

Thanks for the note! Piling the miles on then 😬

 

The nosecone was not aligned very well in this shot, so possible misleading.

 

The new 'Caged' FIA bar only has two forward mountings (one from below, one from above) rahter than the third inboard mount of the old one.

 

My sidescreens were already in place. They'll have to come off soon to avoid damage when I fit belts, seats etc.

 

Still not sure about the upper diff alignment - how critical is it? (3 washers one side, 4 + shim the other). Bottom is fine - less than 0.5mm).

 

Did you fit the seatback carpet in yours? (edit - just looked at your site - you did!) Can't decide whether to or not. Wish I'd had the interior powder coated now...

 

Won't get chance to do much today, but may spray wax in the de Dion tube this afternoon. Did you bother with any anti-corrosion in yours?

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

See some pictures of the build here

 

Edited by - 7heavensoon on 12 Oct 2003 10:32:29

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Personally I don't think centering the top of the diff is as critical as the bottom, just get it the best you can.

 

I didn't put any anti-corrosion stuff in, but do have a gallon of Waxoyl ready and waiting - I expect I'll do the underside and engine bay as a minimum.

 

Keep going!

 

See some photo's of the build here

 

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