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X-Flow throwing out Oil


Purple Ronnie

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Hi Crooky,

 

My crossflow is getting that way too. It is beginning to push oil through the oil filler on the rocker cover.

My car has done 20K, but has good oil pressure (Mobil No1 15w/50)

 

Also my car does not have a crankcase breather. It is an AX block, but RK advises that some of these do not have breathers. My concern is that for some reason *confused*oil is being pushed back past the piston rings and is escaping via the filler.

 

So come on all you XFlow Gurus, any clues 🤔

 

Terry

 

Trying to get out of the garage

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Just thinking out loud.......

 

Have you has a compression test done yet?

Could be pressure in the crank case - worn rings?

(unlikely as a, no smoke from breather and b, it pulls like a train!)

 

Could it be overfilled - wrong dipstick fitted?

Mine sort of finds its own level if overfilled.

It does this by filling the catch tank.

 

Also I have a modified (cut down) dipstick on mine

 

Steve

 

 

Se7en-Up!

Less is more!

 

Remember - an Amateur built the Ark - It took Professionals to build the Titanic!

 

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Now there's an offer I cant refuse *eek*

 

Only problem is I cannot find the overhaul kit I bought about a year ago *mad*

If it turns up I will ring you. If not, I will be at the Phoenix on Wednesday.

 

Steve

 

 

Se7en-Up!

Less is more!

 

Remember - an Amateur built the Ark - It took Professionals to build the Titanic!

 

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The engine can also suffer from heavy breathing and oil being force from the filler cap due either to blocked breather system, worn valve guides, or bores but if this is happening it most likely will be a combination of both.

 


 

Taken from here

 

Steve

 

 

Se7en-Up!

Less is more!

 

Remember - an Amateur built the Ark - It took Professionals to build the Titanic!

 

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I'm afraid that this is very common with Supersprints and is simply due to the fact that the pistons are from a 1300ccm 55bhp engine and are simply not up to the job. Heavy breathing becomes a problem, typically at around 15,000 miles (but this can vary a lot depending on usage) and the only solution is to fit new rings. You can simply glazebust the bores and fit straight replacements if you like, but this will last no better than the originals, or you can bite the bullet and fit forged pistons which are not only stronger, but also use up to date ring technology. This will be much longer lasting and has the bonus of producing better power through lower friction and mass.

 

The same problem occurs to a lesser extent with the Sprint 1600ccm engine, but is usually longer in appearing.

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Hi All

 

I'm also suffering from Oil being thrown out of my X-Flow at the moment but it all seems to be gathering on the Starter Motor area as anyone who saw the car at Cadwell will testify ☹️.

 

I presumed the oil is being pushed through the sump gasket to end up all over the starter but should I be looking elsewhere?, I have a breather fitted that feeds to the Valve Cover, then from the Valve cover to the catch tank. If the oil was coming out of the filler cap surely the whole side of the engine would be caked in oil including the exhaust.

 

Any suggestions before I strip the sump off and replace the gasket as its a pain when the engines in the car ☹️

 

Graham

 

*confused* Competition Secretary *confused*

*cool* Lydden, Curborough, MIRA, Llandow, Loton Park, Curborough, Aintree...What more can you ask for? *cool*

 

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Check the fuel pump mounting gaskets and insulation block. The blocks can crack and I've had oil dripping onto the starter after track days. If you've got an electric pump there is presumably a blanking plate but I'd be surprised if that gave problems.
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  • Area Representative

Just to reiterate a point Steve made, you may well be running with too much oil on board - there are many permutations of sump, dipstick, tube etc. and you could easily have a mismatch.

 

I did, and when I measured in the correct quantity of oil rather than rely on what the dipstick was telling me, problem solved!

 

Until many thousands of miles later anyway, when the problem returned due to wear ☹️

 

Worth a check anyway.

 

Richard

 

Don't Visit the North Kent Area Website here *wink*

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What type of sump do you have?

 

I have a James Whiting aluminium sump and no oil cooler. The instructions with the JW sump stated a capacity of 4 litres but my engine runs happily on 3.5 - any surplus over that very quickly ends up in the catch tank and then the whole thing settles down. I mentioned this to JW and he confirmed that my engine was asking for 3.5 litres, so I ought to give it 3.5 litres. Right you are squire, thought I.

 

If you're not familiar with the JW sump, it's shallower than standard but box shaped, so I guess it holds a bit more than a Caterham modified steel sump.

 

I've no idea on other sump capacities I'm afraid - anyone else?

 

Does your engine behave differently when the dipstick level is low? Or do you never let it get low? I suppose you could (very cautiously) try cutting back on the oil and see if the engine 'finds its level'?

 

But needless to say, if your engine explodes, I've never heard of you *tongue*

 

Richard

 

Don't Visit the North Kent Area Website here *wink*

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. . . . sorry, forgot about the flushing question.

 

I've heard as many arguments for as against on the subject of flushing.

 

Personally, I've plumped for the idea that the best form of engine flushing is a regular oil change - oil might be expensive but not when compared to the value of your engine.

 

But if your engine is sludged up I guess a flush might be a good thing *confused*

 

That doesn't help at all does it *wink*

 

Richard

 

Don't Visit the North Kent Area Website here *wink*

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Crooky,

 

Take Roger King's advice and do a rebuild. With an AX block you have the option to go to 1800cc as well. I did this a few years ago and it was a vast improvement over the original engine. That engine is still going strong (in Tony Pashley's car) with never a problem.

 

Matt

 

 

 

Is it a bike? Is it a car? No it's Blackbirdman *cool*

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Going back to Crooky's earlier question, what are we talking about in terms of cost here, whether for simply re-ringing the existing engine, or for a full blown upgrade to firged pistons etc 🤔 Or is this a case of having a 'quiet word' with RK.

 

I am going to need some form of fix on my crossflow soon, but wouldn't want to waste anyone's time if the cost is likely to be out of reach.

 

Terry

 

Trying to get out of the garage

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I had just this problem with my X flow. Due to budgetary contraints, I opted to fit new pistons and ring. I paid £140 for the piston (which were pocketted to clear the valves). Armed with a flex-honer (I think its called something like that) from Halfords, the job was completed with the engine in place. Alas it transpired the head was in a fair sorry state. The valves had been touching the old non-pocketed pistons. In the end I put a new unleaded head on too. Vote of thanks to Steve of Vulcan Engineering whom gave me excellent service and advice.

I think a proper rebuild with forged pistons from a reputable supplier will cost several £1000s.

Don't get me going on the topic of oil sump capacities. I spent some time trying to find out how oil to put in my car. I never worked out what sump I had. Trial and error has shown that on a track day filling the oil above the 'minimum' mark on my dipstick, just meant it ended up in the catch tank. Running at minimum doesn't seem to cause oil starvation, so thats the level I go with.

Jimbo.

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