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Fuel pump wire amps?

Tight fart

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For safety, use a wire that is at least as high as the fuse rating. So for example if the fuse is a 15Amp (as it is on mine) then 15A cable will be fine. The fuse won't blow till about 30A (twice the rating) and the cable won't be affected by a momentary rise to 30A. The rating of 15A on a cable or fuse is its continuous use rating.




1.8K SV 140hp see it here

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  • 8 months later...

Hi guys,


As we are on the topic of fuel pumps I have been promising to put in one of those little switches to operate the fuel pump manually for draining the tank during a race meeting. Is there a really easy way of doing this as I have tried to find the cables from under the dashboard and the wires are a little difficult to trace. Where would you suggest I take the feed to the switch from? Is there an easier way of operating the fuel pump manually without altering the wiring?


Thanks for your help with this.



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Your problem's not going to be getting the wire through the tunnel (just use a straightened out wire coat hanger), but securing it so it doesn't get buggered by the prop shaft.

I would remove the gear lever, hand brake cover, transmission tunnel cover, heater screws, move heater forward, manipulate trans. tunnel cover forward and off..then you've got proper access to install and secure. May sound like a PITA but it only takes half an hour


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Re the fuel pump manual drain switch...... simply connect a +12v source through an additional ON/OFF switch to one side of the fuel inertia switch (yellow/green wire) under the bonnet.


Switching the new switch ON will cause the fuel pump to run regardless of the immobiliser. I would suggest you take a +12v source that is switched by the ignition so that the new switch is not accidentally switched ON with the ignition OFF.




2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

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