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hubs


StewartG

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The stub axles are different

The easiest way to tell the difference is to look at the hub retaining nut - it's a lot bigger on the new setup.

Yes

No

 

Apparently the new hub design is standard on all new cars - and the parts to retro fit them to older cars are impossible to get hold of ☹️

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The race cars started to suffer hub failures of the standard alloy hubs a few years ago and went back to the old style steel hubs. It's a one make series so the weight doesn't matter it's the same for everyone.

 

The failures were cracks in the hub face around the studs I think, that's what happened to mine last year after 8 years anyway. I replaced mine with new alloy hubs as I value the lightness and don't mind changing them every 8 years or so.

 

This year they have a new design of alloy hub, bearing, stub axle that should prevent the hub failures and maybe other failures as well, bearings or stub axles perhaps (not sure about that).

 

Some of the racers who have upgraded to the new design are flogging their old stuff. I saw one offering the steel hubs as uprated, bit naughty that, if you don't ride kerbs the alloy hubs are good enough and are lots lighter, so downrated in my view.

 

Miraz - I guess the kits to uprate to the new design are all being taken by the racers at this time in the year, quite rightly I think. Once they've all upgraded I would hope they'd become available to us lesser mortals. If they're lighter I'll change if not I probably won't as I've never suffered stub axle or wheel bearing problems, presumably as I keep off the kerbs.... well mostly.

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Lots of the racers seem to have trouble getting hold of them too.

 

The parts were due with the Caterham in Feb....they seem to only be getting supply of of complete uprights to keep the new cars heading out the door.

 

In addition to the cracking problems around the studs, the old alloy hubs can stretch allowing the bearings to fret against the stub axle eventually leading to a weakening and eventual failure of the stub axle.

 

 

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The second problem Miraz mentions was described to me by the Belgian importer, who had had the problem on their racing 21. One of our front wheels has a slight 'play' in it, such as you wouldfind if the bearing was slightly lose - however the bearing is correctly adjusted - could this slight stretching be our problem? car is '96 SS.

 

😬35,000 miles in 19 months! *cool* *thumbup*

angus@tinyworld.co.uk

Caterham pics

here

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This is what we thought *confused* Peter C had a look, they seemed adjusted ok with regard to tighness/free-wheeling etc, but that slight play when gripping and 'wobbling' the wheel seems to creeps back. Wondered if it was the bearing seat that was the problem - Belgian chap had suggested that could be it - the hubs go 'oval'? Whatever, its certainly time to check and probably replace the whole bearing set after the miles we have done.

 

😬35,000 miles in 19 months! *cool* *thumbup*

angus@tinyworld.co.uk

Caterham pics

here

 

Edited by - angus&tessa on 29 Apr 2003 23:24:44

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Graham,

 

Rememeber the granularity of the bearing adjustment is 60 degrees on the castleated nut (so the split pin engages) hence it is almost always slightly too loose or too tight.

 

I always run mine the loose side.

 

The key here is to regularly check the bearings for play if you do much track work and check the hub flanges around the studs. You can do these things each time you change the wheels - an action performed regulalrly by the track day and racing community.

 

Fat Arn

Visit the K2 RUM website

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website here

 

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