Ian1959 Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Hi my Duartec seems to making a top end noise, have been advised it might be a lifter. Mechanic friend said do a Wynn’s engine flush to see if this clears it any thoughts appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Duratec uses solid tappets so your mechanic is mistaken. Has the noise just started...? What work is any has been carried out recently....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian1959 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 No work carried out, just noticed the strange noise, only asked the mechanic out of interest if there was a common issue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Any chance you could record the noise and post it on here? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted February 19 Area Representative Share Posted February 19 I presume the noise is heard quite loudly with the bonnet on & at half the speed of the engine ? Bonnet off then it could be the odd noisy injector clicking away.....faint hope ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakman Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 I assume you have had a good look around the engine while it's running to make sure all is correct on the outside. I would get one of those cheap mechanics stethoscopes or use the old long screw driver on the ear trick and see if you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. Some Duratec engines had problems with valve spring breakage, mostly 420's i think? Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian1959 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 I will record the noise and post tomorrow, did a check with the screwdriver as a thought it might be the belt tensioner but it was ok, also checked all the plugs were tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Ian, if there is any indication the noise is from the valve train, it is worth removing the cam cover and pressing down on each bucket tappet to see if there is any difference in the spring tension between them. My current R400D engine rebuild is due to failed inlet valve springs, where all inlet valve springs fractured (all exhaust valve springs were fine), one inlet valve spring double fractured and the valve fell in at high RPM and made a horrible mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian1959 Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 Started the engine today to record noise, getting a more mechanical sound, think it’s timing chain area drivers side, could be the tensioner / rubbing strip will have a look by removing the rocker cover Tried to upload a video but too large! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 14 hours ago, Ian1959 said: Tried to upload a video but too large! Could you try a video hosting site? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian1959 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Took the rocker cover off and found the timing chain is loose! Need to remove the crankshaft pulley any ideas remove starter and lever the ring gear? or impact gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 (edited) Ensure you have the engine locked from rotating before undoing the crankshaft pulley, best with all pistons at mid-cylinder, although if you have the alignment tool I list below, set the cams to #1 TDC and lock the flywheel/crankshaft in that position, don't use the crankshaft alignment pin when undoing though, as the torque required will bend it if the crankshaft rests against it, and it may require major surgery to remove. Once it comes loose there is no key on the crankshaft (one-use friction washers only), so valves can hit pistons if the crankshaft is rotated and the crankshaft pulley is loose. You can lock at the ring gear (the bolt is at several hundred Nm, so best to engage in several teeth to avoid breaking a single tooth). There is also a special crankshaft pulley tool that I purchased from Amazon, mine was from amazon.ca at $59, but this is the equivalent tool on Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elf-Bee-999-7128-Crankshaft-Compatible/dp/B07TJQ7YYD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N6ZZWB3P52L7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.pyF50aq1vWSwzgpYxzk_3Q.k0rrPENUuV8vd085ZW96zXEsV31g16A8aBgAXVypnhI&dib_tag=se&keywords=999+7128&qid=1708548393&s=automotive&sprefix=999+7128%2Cautomotive%2C327&sr=1-1 For reassembly, you will need an alignment tool such as this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/kweiny-Camshaft-Alignment-Timing-Engine/dp/B0992HQWXC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=181G6IF5N4EO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-fbpn5chPI2da16ek4KPxYxpYX9JF1HwunIF2Muw5Zz2MqLzoXla9tWdMmixOCjijRxRrR8UOijuT4RgOSkXiXYfuhjXUpzQjhKu5mLsKhDFKjCQqTCtwu1akzkIBC6Ajt954_SuzhnjbLK5mfTGWEx-WzfK8gKsjVI3KhvvCSUK1Wv8-qFsd2ubuTPoyO_xosSV8J0CWoUN3MRqh-DS-qMAqaAUnSbP9wWYtNNm_CMAAzKN1RSmQYxGC1ELvD0ZsKnIhPfnKBYQHfi89YGJys7zDgP8MFNoXmnjH-cEMnA.low00wTwhqEaPz_xR4UXQps5j0IZ7aPZmKQuSBgOgtU&dib_tag=se&keywords=kweiny+Camshaft+Alignment+Timing+Tool+Kit+for+Ford+Mercury+Mazda+Engine+Some+Models&qid=1708548724&sprefix=kweiny+camshaft+alignment+timing+tool+kit+for+ford+mercury+mazda+engine+some+models+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3 2 new diamond friction washers should also be needed (part numbers - Ford 1S7Z-6378-AA or Mazda L3H5-11-407) and the crankshaft bolt is single use (I'm using an ARP replacement from Raceline). Edited February 21 by aerobod - near CYYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Both Burton Power and Caterham parts carry the OEM crank pulley bolt, and diamond washers for both the crankshaft and the camshafts too at similar prices, you will also need some Loctite 5910 sealer for the front timing cover. You can crack the front pulley bolt with the car in gear and someone firmly on the foot brake, you will need a a long breaker bar though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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