Gridgway Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 Bit of an obscure one, but I've had cause to change the chokes in my DCOE webers (crossflow). This is simple. 4 nuts to undo that clamp the trumpet retaining tabs (on studs). This is a rebuilt engine with refreshed carbs by a weber specialist.Now the nuts are nylocs which certainly looks out of place. Also one of the studs has come out rather than the nyloc undoing. It's odd as the nyloc has undone a few turns then locked solid. It will neither tighten nor loosen.I have concluded that I need to get a replacement stud. Now to the question.Can anyone with webers look and see what nuts are used please? I don't really like nylocs in this situation as they are always going to try and undo the studs. I would imagine that it should have plain nuts and spring washers or other shakeproof washers.Clearly you don't want them to undo inside the air filters and end up going in!This ebay ad implies plain nuts and spring washers.Thanks Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 Plain nut and spring washer as Weber details here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 DCOE & DCO/SP parts Archives - Eurocarb (dellorto.co.uk)Plain nuts and a spring washer according to the official supplier. The diagram is interactive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 Snap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 With loctite....I lock wired mine iirc. They have been known to undo and get swallowed by the engine. I have throttle bodies now and have lock wired those as well.helps me sleep at night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 20, 2023 Author Share Posted August 20, 2023 thanks all, I didn't find the exploded diagram on Webcon.#5 how did you lockwire them? I assume you used nuts with lockwire holes drilled? Where did you lockwire to?Also if one uses loctite then that'll really want to undo the stud as well, is that a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestifel Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 I switched mine from the split lock washers to nylocs. Split lock washers are basically worthless for preventing things loosening and I trust the nylocks much more. It's inside the air filter so no one else needs to know it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 You wire nut to nut...I can't envisage problems if you loctite the stud as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 21, 2023 Author Share Posted August 21, 2023 Thanks ECR, I assume the lock wire goes around the trumpet to get from nut to nut?Does anyone have a source of drilled plain M6 nuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 By all means use a plain nut and spring washer, but don't be surprised when something works loose and is ingested. Since the 1970s I have been using the following method.Use a medium strength Loctite to fit the stud to the carb so it won't vibrate loose, then fit the trumpet, the trumpet retaining tab, and attach with a nyloc. It may look "out of place", but it's not visible when the filters are on. Whatever the situation, it will look less "out of place" than a destroyed engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 21, 2023 Author Share Posted August 21, 2023 #10 I was more "worried" about the nylocs always taking the stud out than the "look" certainly Roger, but your description is quite compelling!I think I need to get a new stud as I can't get the nyloc off it, then I'll put it back together with nylocs.Any thoughts on what is the right medium strength Loctite compound to keep the stud in place?Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestifel Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 242 or 243. 243 is preferable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 21, 2023 Author Share Posted August 21, 2023 #12 thanks. Looking in my garage, that's what I have (and consider to be "standard loctite, so that's good!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 You should be able to remove the nyloc from the stud using two pain nuts tightened against each other, then holding one, unwind the nyloc. That is assuming things haven't escalated to far already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 21, 2023 Author Share Posted August 21, 2023 #14 I should indeed. I tried with the p(l)ain nuts quite tight, then tight, then f tight and it wouldn't shift and I am sure the thread is now knackered. New stud coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 24, 2023 Author Share Posted August 24, 2023 As per my other thread, it's all back together now. I found that the threads on the errant stud were knackered so I put a new weber stud in it. Interestingly there were a lot of differences in the studs that were in there. Also the new one had a big shoulder, so needed a washer under the nut to allow it to be done up.Several of the studs were short enough so that the nyloc was engaged, but it looked a bit marginal. So it went back together with new nylocs plus loctite. Should all be fine.Thanks all for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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