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Down on power in Class 2 Sprinting


C7 Owl

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I fancy having a run on some hill climbs and sprints this year.  So I have started prepping the car and getting the safety equipment.  I have a 2000 superlight 1.6 K series.  So have been looking at the class my car will qualify in.  The superlight special edition had the caterham 6 speed gear box so it looks like it needs to be in class 2.  The power limit in that class is 155bhp.  The power stated in launch material and the performance car magazine review is 138bhp.  So Im wondering with the aeroscreen Im just installing and trying to get some kilos off the lump of a driver down to about 85kg. Will most other people have maxed the power to 155bhp or there abouts and it will be difficult to match times?  Or will driver technique and tyres etc play more of a role.  For the first sprint im sure I wont mind but want to plan expenses if I enjoy it etc, should I plan to breath on the engine to be on about par with those at the top of class 2?  I know if im competing I would not be happy to not be in the mix due to machinery limits.  Are there more important mods I should be considering to get the car competing with those in that class ie flat flooring being other thing I can think of.  I dont really want to mess with the suspension other than fine tuning as really like how it drives on the road. 

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A 1.6k Superlight is ideal for Class 2 or 3, the only difference being tyres. List 1A for class 2 (typically Yoko A539s) and List 1B for class 3 (typically Avon ZZS). Please don't start upgrading the engine just yet... the biggest factor by far is driver ability/confidence/experience, followed by tyres/setup. An extra 15 bhp could be expensive, and you won't be gaining many 10ths. Accurate cam timing with verniers and a 52mm TB may be worthwhile if you really want to tinker before you start.

Class 2 was very quiet in 2022, following an exodus up to a busy class 3. I suspect that might continue in 2023, so you might want to watch the entry numbers. Its always good to be in a bigger class with plenty of competition throughout, and after many years in class 2 on wooden tyres, I'm enjoying the extra grip on track and road with ZZS. Not quite enough grip, but thats another story.

Flat flooring is usual, but if you are already confident with your car setup, I suggest you leave well alone for now. 

If the speed bug bites, there will be plenty of advice on ways to spend your cash, but I'd run with what you have for a first season. Its always good to have some excuses up your sleeve as well, just in case you don't win.

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Hi Alan 

Thanks that was what I was hoping to hear.  I mainly drive on the road on twisty stuff when poss and currently its really nice for that no need for extra grunt.  So no desire to spend on engine mods unless i really enjoyed sprinting and was nowhere near the pace.  So thats reassuring.  Nearer the time and before I buy some new tyres I will check with organiser how many in class 2 or 3.  Ive got two sets of wheels so might get a road set that has the Yoko and another with trackday tyres and can decide nearer the time.  I was weighing up what to replace my nankang with and was either Toyo R888r or Avon ZZS for sprinting are they similar or are the Avons massively preferred?  

Is it possible to enter 2 classes and have twice as many runs?  

 

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Personally - I wouldn't worry. 
First year/ few seasons the biggest improvement will come from you, the driver. 
After that then see how you feel and what your budget is. Not everyone is anywhere near the power limits in class 2 or 3 - mine is probably just scraping 140bhp without the issues it's had/ got and I've still had a relatively successful season. 
 

So I guess to provide my feedback - there are certain circuits that do favour power and put you at a disadvantage. However you soon learn which these are and can avoid - Gurston and Aintree are two for starters. If you can 'really' push your car to the limit then you'll more than make up for power deficit. You also don't need to be a skinny racing snake... (cue sarcasm from all) and no need for that expensive suspension or flat flooring if you are comfortable with what you have - however - both of these along with reduction in weight and more power make it much easier! 

So, try it, surprise yourself and see where you are... if you are down on speed trap or sector times one of us will no doubt pore over your video or data/ sector times and highlight what you can do to improve. 

 

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Just do enough to be compliant with the regs then get sprinting.  Before my first season I spent a while pondering upgrades and car changes, but decided to just go with the car I had - I just added new Avons, petty strut (I have one for slightly older cars if you want it) and bought a race suit, helmet and gloves.  Your first few events will see you make big improvements, but it will be nothing to do with the car, it's a great learning process. 

I then made changes after my first season when I knew more about what was required, and could then feel the improvement.  It was quite a big change in fairness, I changed the car! But that's not what everyone does.

I have just competed my 4th season, and can't wait to get started again in March.  We are a friendly bunch so there is always plenty of advice and help around.  Hopefully see you there. 

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  • Support Team

Just to add to the others, I've been in Class 2 the last 2 years and its all about the driver, unless you're chasing that last few tenths to beat the class leaders.  You might notice a difference a bit at Goodwood where you're at full throttle a lot of the time, but almost all of the places, if you're like me, the reason you're 3 seconds off the pace is the lump in the drivers seat!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Having spent several seasons in Class 2 (and even notching up a win or two) with a standard 1997 Superlight, I would echo all of the comments above. You'll be absolutely fine with 138 BHP in Class 2. Of course, our Superlight is a little less standard now and we'll be moving up to Class 3 this year...

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