Remove immobiliser and ignition barrel

[Caesar]

K series.  I am tired of waiting for my temperamental "Rover" key fob to let me start the car and since the steering lock is redundant (removable wheel) I want to go down the 'keyless ignition' route.

Can anyone recommend someone in the Surrey area who can do this?

[Jonathan Kay]

Private Message sent.

[Caesar]

Jonathan, I cannot send you my email address as you request as this message comes up:

You can not reply to this conversation because all recipients are blocked

Why not reply via BC, others may also be interested?

 

David

[revilla]

The ECU needs a small programming change to run without the immobiliser. You can either do it yourself using my MEMS3 Mapper tool (free download, you'll need a £5 cable off eBay, I'll talk you through it), pay somebody to do it, or send the ECU to me and I'll do it for you. Once that's done you can either remove the immobiliser or just leave it in, the flashing LED may act as a deterrent but the car will start and run normally without you having to use the key fobs.

[Jonathan Kay]

Sorry: there's a bit of space there now.

Jonathan

[Caesar]

BTW

If it is just to do this, then I have tried

Insert the iginition key in the ignition and turn it on.
Turn it off BUT DO NOT REMOVE THE KEY!
Open the fob.
Remove the battery.
Wait ten seconds (or a bit more)
Reinsert the battery.
Close the fob cover.
Operate each button 5 times.

It's not just the faff of unsetting the thing, I simply want to get rid of the lock barrel (redundant) and replace the key and immobiliser with keyless.

[Caesar]

Hi Revilla, that sounds like a scheme but I am a bit reluctant to send the ECU, are you by any chance in my area - being, er, Caterham?!

[revilla]

Afraid not. Loughborough, Leicestershire. Do you fancy having a go yourself with a bit of guidance on what to do? You would need a PC near the car (ideally a laptop running Windows) and the right kind of cable. You could use my tool to read the map, you change one "0" to a "1" and then write it back again.You would have to try pretty hard to break anything badly as the software is all fail-safe-write now. Worst case if you got the ECU into the worst possible pickle, there's a feature in the tool that will get it back out of anything now in a couple of clicks, so there's very little risk.If it really went pear-shaped you could always send it to me in the end.

[revilla]

Actually I just realised, might be jumping the gun a bit here... Do you know if it's EU3 (coil packs on top of plugs, wedge-shaped ECU) or EU2? My stuff will only do EU3 but I know a man who knows about EU2...

[Caesar]

Hi "Revilla",

I'm not keen on that either as I'm on MacBook OS and I know how picky it can be!

Since I am not desperate, how about I take the ECU out and drive up to you and you sort it out while I am there?  It wouldn't be for a couple of weeks.

Whadda you say, it would really help me out!

David

[revilla]

Yes sure if you want ... It will be a long drive for what will literally take me 5 minutes but I guess it gets the job done. Will have get the kettle on to make the trip worth it! But have you seen my question above on EU2 or EU3?

[Caesar]

Yes, seen the question so will go and check tomorrow.

Thanks!

David

[revilla]

Any news?

[Wrightpayne]

On the Rover, definitely EU2 maybe 3, you have to physically switch the immobiliser on. Why dont you just leave it switched off? 
 

Or does the EU3 immobiliser automatically set itself on removal of the key?

Ian
 

[Jonathan Kay]

I have manuals and some notes for several of the types of immobilisers used on Sevens. These cover normal use and resetting etc, and relevant wiring diagrams. 

This is not the fruits of Andrew's detailed detective work on ECUs, as described above.

If anyone would like a copy of what I have for their own type please send me a Private Message including which it is and your email address.

Jonathan

[Caesar]

I'll take a pic and post it - thanks to all

[revilla]

@Ian the Model Year 97 onwards 5AS immobiliser has "passive arming" which means it automatically arms itself after a certain time with the ignition off. It is configurable, you can set the time (I think 15 minutes is common) and you can turn the feature on it off (it's usually on by default). So far the only way I know if configuring it requires a soldering iron! I've never out the effort into working out the communication protocols to configure it through the OBDII port which I'm sure is possible. There is a work-around. If you cut the permanent 12V feed wire to the immobiliser, it powers down when you turn the ignition off. This effectively stops the clock and means that the passive arming never times out!

[Caesar]

Thanks to everybody for the helpful comments and advice.

However, I feel I am getting away from my original idea of having 'keyless ignition' or at least, a key but no immobiliser and a push button start.  I am really looking for a firm who has experience of this work on a 7 in the Surrey / Kent area.

Thanks again.

David