Raceline Built 2.3 Duratec R 273 BHP

[CPGCharlie]

Hi All, 

I'm struggling to find out anything from the guys who built the engine in my 7. It's all pretty basic stuff but i don't know the answers to the following questions. 

1. Emptying the Cosworth Dry Sump. a couple of average attempts with much black oil left, is there a trick to this? What is the best method? 

2. Preferred oil and preferred filter?

3. AP racing hydraulic race clutch fitted and extremely long pedal travel - 1st becoming notchy. if this is the best clutch to replace with a like for like. 

4. New thermostat needed - temperature readings a bit too variable and over 100 degrees on startup - normally cools down to 90 odd after 5 minutes 

If anyone knows any of the answers to these I would be most appreciative. 

best

Charlie 

[David_Long]

The Costworth sump is best drained by removing the black drain plug on the sump (the one in the middle and on the left) as well as the tank. You will also want to remove the front hose and fitting to remove the wire filter for cleaning - personally I remove all the pipes.

Choice of oil is really down to you but 5w50, minimum - I use a 10W60 in that sort of capacity and power. Oil filter depends on your setup, but any of the Duratec filters that fit, or a Mann W77 if it is tight for room.

Clutch  - probably replace with the same unless you want to go multi plate. It shouldn't have a long travel so worth checking that out if you replace it.

Worth checking the thermostat is an 82c one. Normally cooling is reliable and stable if the Ford plumbing is used. Are you using an aftermarket water rail? That could be the issue.

 

 

[Dave Hardcastle]

Hi Charlie, can't help with #1 & #4.

#2 - if it's the same as the 2.0 Duratec it's a MANN W77, a stubby filter, available on e-bay for around £6.50. Personally I'd put the Comma 5w/50 synthetic oil in, again available on e-bay, often good prices if you buy 10 litres. Just enter 'comma 5w50 engine oil' in the search bar and take your pick of prices.

#3 I initially answered this point thinking 'brakes' then realised you'd said clutch *doh*. Worth checking though, does the clutch just require a top-up/bleeding?

Hope that helps,

Dave

[7 wonders of the world]

Clutch - if you have a stop (which you should) has this been set correctly..?

As above really, stat should be 82 degree Mahle ones available for circa £17

Oil I run 10w/60 with the Mann W77 filter, I also take the tank out to wash this too, assuming you have a separate tank and not the bell tank..?