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Accelerator position - what do you find?


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New cable (standard K series to my R500 K Titan Roller Barrel Throttle Bodies) and I have a bolt setting the resting position max, but nothing for the max wide open throttle (bad, because it uses the RBs themselves as the "throttle stop".

So aside from all that, where do you prefer (not think is "correct") the height of your accelerator pedal, both related to your foot/leg length, so how much you have to push your foot forward to accelerate more and to max and in relation to the brake pedal (so affecting heal and toe). 

Principally I am wondering if the higher the pedal (ceteris paribus) the more tendency to use more acceleration and vice versa.

With my change of cable my foot is mildly confused.

edit: and with the hole worn in the floor now fixed (very nice work by SM25T *beer*) where my accelerator foot heel rests that changes things too ;-)




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Dunno if this is relevant, but on my Sigma which uses the K Series throttle cable, I wasn’t happy with the arrangement and the possibility of using the throttle body as the detente.  This seemed to me that, at full opening, the cable or the TB would be needlessly stressed.

I set the throttle rest for optimum heel / toe.  Then I cut off the soldered nipple thing that engages the cable into the top of the throttle pedal. That allowed me to thread the cable through the throttle pedal arm and project out the rear side.  After some checks and balances to ensure maximum throttle opening without stressing the cable, I secured the cable in place with a go kart throttle cable clamp which has an Allen screw fixing and is easily adjustable.

Maybe it is my personal ergonomics but I now achieve max throttle opening just where the natural stop point is.

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yes, that's what we did, but my screw clamp wasn't ideal so fell off leaving me throttle-less at full throttle, happily in trivial circumstances. The screw vibrated loose. The trouble is I don't trust any screw clamp solution, and of course that was before this little event. So a swaged solution is I think the only method that won't leave me fretting all the time. I guess reason has not much to do with it. 

Having said it was adjusted to max, I have now adjusted it beyond max and wound it back on a few turns. It feels firm and has closed up nearly all the slack, CC tell me a little slack is desirable. 

I understand the worry about stress to the TBs. Though having not had one for 20 years and just having replaced the TBs last week it's on my list but not high priority, not least as I don't seem to have a max throttle pedal stop - aside of course from the screw throttle stop for wot on the TBs.. so I suppose there is a throttle stop. I suppose being a road car and not spending much time at wot it's different to track use. 

I like the idea of the screw clamp, but find myself unable to trust it - even if I did make it a self-fulfilling prophesy


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On the pedal lever end I use screw nipples to adjust it to mid screw length point on the TB adjuster and fine tune from that.

I have always had the accelerator pedal lower than the depressed brake pedal so I can toe & heel (or more precisely in my case ball of foot and twist to side of foot) to blip the throttle.

I have also extended the throttle pedal tube a bit to the left to make this easier.

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Oh. as an after thought.

I use a bicycle brake inner cable threaded through the Caterham outer cable (many many ££'s cheaper)

First cable lasted probably 10 years until I snapped it doing the 0-60 challenge at the Donnington Park 60th.

(note to self when at WOT Don't press any harder, it doesn't go any faster) *banghead*


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right at the point where it attaches to the throttle leaver. When they do break (TADTS)

I modified the cut out slot a bit on the lever and "padded" it with a bit of plastic tubing (many years ago)

I suspect (I know) it only broke because I was trying to push the lever through the floor pan on the 0-60 run *nono*

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I had a chat with CC the other day and that is exactly the point they said if it breaks, which is rare, it will go (the Rover K cable), so to be sure there is no bend and it pulls straight, because it is the wiggle caused by a bend that eventually breaks it. 

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