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water leak after K rebuild


patibbitts

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Following the headgasket replacement (including. Water pump, upgraded oil ladder & timing belt replacement) - the engine started OK - but has a water weep / drip from the headgasket joint area behind the timing cover on the exhaust side.

During the refresh, the head was skimmed and overhauled.

 

The new stretch bolts were torqued to 20NM + 90 + 90° as prescribed.

A new MLS gasket & 'loose' shim was fitted.

 

Q: any ideas how to resolve the issue, I notice that the very latest gasket available is rivited together - mine was in three separate parts - have I used the wrong gasket methinks?

Or would the bolts take more torque to try to pull it down tighter, before a repeat strip down?

 

Your thoughts / similar experiences would be appreciated

 

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Head bolts are 20Nm + 180 + 180 (or + 90 + 90 + 90 + 90) so with just two 90 increments you will be a bit slack. Once torqued don't keep tightening them, they stretch into yield once the engine gets hot and if you keep "topping up" the torque all that will happen is the bolts will eventually snap. The MLS gasket and shim are notorious for weeping water. I had nothing but problems which is why I always build with the latest Payen BW750 (BLUE) elastomer gasket now. The riveted gaskets are the latest Chinese production line units.

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Thanks for the reply - I did actually do the 180/180° regime, typo!

Quite confusing info out there - seemed like the elastomer gaskets were a no no - with the metal ones being recommended 100% by all and sundry?

 

But I must admit I can't quite get my head round using a steel metal gasket without some sort of gasket goo !

 

In your experience does the weep seal up when normal engine running temperature is achieved, or do I need to strip her again, for sure??

Regs

 

 

 

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It can take a bit of time and heat to get the sealant later on the shim to bond to the head but they have a bit of a reputation if weeping slightly even once settled. If you use the latest best elastomer gasket you shouldn't have problems. Payen branded only, blue coloured elastomer (not red or pink).
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Coolant leak from the outlet at the rear of the CH, exhaust side, will often run along the CH to engine block joint and appear as you describe at the front of the engine.

Cause is usually due either the fixing bolts for the coolant outlet flange bottoming out or the flange is not flat. On my car it was both.

Malcolm

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Sounds familiar, many years ago on my 1.4 k super sports upgrade.

I was horrified, yet as i discovered it was from the water rail and running along the head to the lowest point.

 

Easy fix.

 

Let's hope its same for you

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