K click and is removing the manifold easy on a k series ?

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

My 7 is suffering the k click . It already appears to have the relay mod but the wires used are not the right size, 

Does anyone know how much cable and what colours I need to order, I believe the size is 3mm . 

Also how hard is it to remove the manifold as I would like to re-rout/protect the cables with some thermal sleeve. 

Many thanks 

Jon

[SM25T]

Exhaust manifold ? Simply unbolts. Separate primaries or a single piece ?

[revilla]

I can't see why you would need to remove the manifold? If you want to re-route the solenoid cable, it should just unplug from a spade connector at the solenoid.

[SM25T]

[Jonathan Kay]

Does anyone know how much cable and what colours I need to order, I believe the size is 3mm .

If you'd like the factory wiring diagram please send me a Private Message with your email address and the car's year, model and dash.

"Standard" British wiring colours.

Jonathan

[anthonym]

Please Show us a pic of your wires in context of your starter? 

Just curious to see. 

Anthony

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

Many thanks Jonathan - I may just do that. 

I need to order some cable and I don't want to order 20 metres if I only need 2 . 

[CageyH]

From memory, a couple of metres will be sufficient.

[anthonym]

I keep a supply of these cables to facilitate their change as a service item when heat has done its thing by reducing voltage.

each one is covered in additional heat protection sleeving.

routing is down under the starter to achieve minimum of 10cm from primary. Same with main cable to battery.

starter is turned so that solenoid is more down under. (A Brise).

I would measure the required distance with string or wire. 

I believe I have experienced every variation of COD.

My primaries are a b to get at, 15mm socket but every different type of  shape. Maybe practice improves the matter. 

Anhony R500K 50,000 heat soaking  miles.

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

Anthony 

Many thanks for your reply . 

I think my current set up is the wiring is right next too the primary, hence when the engine is hot it won't start. 

Great idea about the string though I ordered the wiring before I read your reply. 

I'll order some heat protection sleeving. 

Cheerts 

JOn

[SM25T]

Still unsure why you want to remove the primaries to reroute any wiring?

[anthonym]

Jon

No start on hot engine; far too many no start memories of that. On one occasion it was the wire (multi strand) that holds/connects the brushes inside the starter that were also fried, on another the main feed wire (removed) was so stiff it snapped when bent. Yet another was the solenoid feed with 12v fed in, had only 7v (I forget exactly) at the other end. So engine starts when allowed to cool. Eventually it won’t start when cold, so the cool off time slowly increases to infinity.

One proof is push start usually starts her.

I did write this up somewhere in the old blatchat.

Anthony

[Jonathan Kay]

I'll order some heat protection sleeving. 

That will slow the heating of the cable inside but might not affect its final temperature. How about fitting cable that is specified for high temperature?

Jonathan

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

Jonathan Wasn't aware of cables that were 'heat proofed' dont suppose you know the supplier ?

Re. removing the manifold. I mention it as a fellow 7 owner suggested it , though now confused why he would suggest it, if only to wrap in the manifold

 

[anthonym]

there is a whole world of wire technology to enjoy once you start digging.

trying to recall if we had any threads.. must have

[Jonathan Kay]

Wasn't aware of cables that were 'heat proofed' dont suppose you know the supplier ?

Private Message sent.

Jonathan

[CageyH]

I also put a thermal.protection sleeve around my starter.

[revilla]

PM sent.

[rj]

Most heat resistant cables still have a copper core; it's just the insulation made from woven glass. (Crap to work with).

[Bricol]

I entirely bypassed the original starter solenoid wiring from ignition switch to starter, but kept the original cable from battery to starter, around 16yrs ago.

Still works first time, every time, also around 50,000 miles with a tubular exhaust manifold

[p.mole1]

I would check the 2 earth straps, I had the hot start problem and it was the earth leads. They seem to be of a poor design with a small contact surface.

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

Where abouts are the two earth leads ?

[SM25T]

There will be a battery to bellhousing and another between the engine and the chassis. Possibly from the same point.

[p.mole1]

On mine a 1995 K series one lead is attached th the rear of the cylinder head near the exhaust cam, this one gave me a poor earth. The other is on the right hand engine mount.