Planning my first start, looking for recommendations and gotchas

[CtrMint]

Evening,

I hope you don’t mind me posting this, you’ve all been so fantastic during my build it would seem a little silly not to ask for your input.  My aim is to finally try and start my kit this weekend.  I will be finishing a number of jobs through the week, and then hopefully putting oil, coolant and obviously fuel in this Saturday and starting!

I appreciate CC have documented the first start procedure, however if there is one thing that’s become clear during the build is that some experience goes along way to help smooth the more difficult tasks, plus my mistake with the clutch bleed nipple last weekend hasn’t done my confidence much good.

Can I therefore ask for your advice, recommendations, tricks and gotchas when starting for the first time.  Car is of course a 420R dry sump.

I’ve searched the forum but didn’t come up with anything sadly.

Thanks

[Jim 123]

You'll need about 15 litres of fuel in the tank.  Ensure the immobiliser is paired and deactivates.

[Petethediesel]

Remove the spark plugs and detach the inertia switch, for the initial cranking to establish oil pressure. Once you have oil pressure, connect back up /plugs in and you're good to go. You will get plenty of white smoke from the exhaust initially but it's normal, just internal pipe oil from bending burning off.

[CtrMint]

Thanks Jim,

Given I'll be doing this on Saturday/Sunday, I'd like to be prepared as possible.  

"15 litres of fuel in the tank"  Is that for the first start or normal for the Caterham?

"Ensure the immobiliser is paired and deactivates".          Is it likely they are not paired?  Is it a simple pairing procedure?   

Thanks

[CtrMint]

Thanks Pete, 

"Remove the spark plugs "   The manual doesn't mention removing the plugs but I will follow your advice.  I'm assuming the inertia switch cuts fuel only and not the ignition to the plugs?

[revilla]

Removing the plugs means there is no compression so the starter is able to spin the engine more easily and at a faster rate.

[John Vine]

Personally, I wouldn't bother taking out the plugs.  Just disconnect the inertia switch, hit the red button and spin the engine until you get oil pressure (this could take 30-40 secs).  Then reconnect the inertia switch, check the button on top is pressed down, and hit the red button again, this time for real.  Switch off again within 60 secs and check the oil level.

JV

[CtrMint]

Interesting point on the plugs,, I can see the logic, putting less load on the starter motor, but it is more work....

Can I double check where the 6L of oil goes (i know ... silly right), I only ask as I'm surprised to add it to the top of the engine.  The assembly guide says "With all variants the engine oil should be filled via the screw cap on the top of the engine."

I am new to a dry sump system, I understand the basics, i.e. the second pump responsible for returning oil to the reservoir.  But what happens dumping 6l into an engine without the second pump running?  Apologies if this is a dumb question, I am totally learning here?

[ScottR400D]

I’d pour most of it into the tank. Maybe a litre through the engine filler to make sure the cams have plenty. 

Also, when turning over, disabled or not, plugs or not, don’t run the starter too long, they get hot. If it takes a lot of cranking stop every 5-10s and let it cool a little. 

[ScottR400D]

I’d pour most of it into the tank. Maybe a litre through the engine filler to make sure the cams have plenty. 

Also, when turning over, disabled or not, plugs or not, don’t run the starter too long, they get hot. If it takes a lot of cranking stop every 5-10s and let it cool a little. 

[CtrMint]

The heat produced by an electric motor is related to its load, so if that's the case it would seem logical to lower the load, which means removing the plugs.

Seems I was right to question the oil then...

[ScottR400D]

How much are you putting in? Initially, I was told 5.5L but searching the www I learned that about 7 will go in comfortably. 

I find 7 gives me a level just under the central baffle, 5 min after switching off and I’ve not had any issues with oil through the breather etc. 

[Jim 123]

Mark re #4 have a look at the Handbook re pairing you may not need to do this..  If the blinky red dash light goes out the immobiliser is deactivated and ready to go.  There is an aerial on the ignition barrel and sometimes you need to put the fob close to the ignition barrel to get the immobiliser electrics talking. For first fueling 15 litres should get the system primed as usually a 5 litre can-full is not enough.

[CtrMint]

Scott,   The assembly guide (2015) says 6L, so was aiming at that, although I received 10L which was a surprise, I would have thought CC would have supplied 5L+1L for 6L.

[CtrMint]

Jim, Thanks for that, i'll go have a nose at the car manual, to be honest, I totally forgot about it, I put it away safe when the car arrived.  Thanks

[ScottR400D]

6L will be fine to start with. After that it seems the consensus seems to be nearer 7 to get the level right  

IIRC, somewhere CC say the level should be just below the middle baffle when running. IME it’s impossible to tell where it is when running because you’re looking through the returning flow.  

When I check the level, I always do it as soon as I stop after a run. Stop, bonnet off, nose off, filler cap off and look at level. It’s always just below or occasionally on the baffle. 

If I check after it’s stood a long time, sometimes it’s the same but others it’s quite a bit lower. Seems that quite randomly it can occasionally drain to the sump when standing and other times not, so I always do it as above. 

Works for me. No oil chucked out, no discernible consumption and very stable temperature. 

[ECR]

I agree with Scott re filling point

The feed from the bottom of the dry sump tank will go directly to the oil pump so I always fill the dry sump tank.

If you pour oil into the engine filler, it will sink to the sump, be collected from the sump by the scavenge pump which will then push it back into the dry sump tank and then to the oil pump,a lot longer time with no oil to the oil pump feeding the bearings

[CtrMint]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll go with the tank approach.

 

[ECR]

In a dry sump system the oil level should be just below the baffle. The returning oil hits the baffle, spreads out into a thin layer, releasing any trapped air, and then sinks into the tank. The baffle is important to release the air, if the tank is overfilled and the baffle is running under oil, the air won't be released well.