anthonym Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 James that’s one complicated document to the uninitiated (me). It sounds like it’s the choice of resin allowing moisture absorption, in two ways: one invading the spaces, two because the very substances attract water. Reminds me of osmosis in our boats, though I gather that is now a thing of the past. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 5, 2019 Member Share Posted August 5, 2019 The WD40 displaces the water absorbed into the composite (around 1% over prolonged exposure, according to this research: https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/aae5/cc999bf7184d7bba7cc7d6f44979c4c9afa9.pdf )Waxes do little to seal the surface effectively and from my experimentation with a number of synthetic wax/sealer treatments, do not correct the water mark already created (also, lots of complex chemicals in these, too, so not necessarily any more environmentally friendly than WD40).Thanks.I can understand how WD-40 displaces water in the material, and it is very good at that. Does the milkiness disappear as soon as it's applied or is there a noticeable delay?But once that has been achieved I don't understand why it would be better than a hydrophobic wax. They should have the same effect on subsequent water penetration but I'd expect the wax to hang around longer.Have they ever been compared after the initial application of WD-40?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 I think the answer to that lies in the distinction between moisture entering into the spaces in the carbon fibre and the chemical composition of the resin attracting water molecules. However, I am struggling to comprehend the document James has linked, but that seems to be what it is saying. While a water rejecting wax may hope to stop water ingress in to the spaces, I suspect it will not affect the molecular level action, which in the instance of manufacture would have required addition of one or both the substances mentioned in the paper. WD40 seems to have a common ancestor (i.e. oil) with CF and resin whereas wax does not.The milkiness disappears, mostly. I am waiting to see if over time the vestiges also go.anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted August 6, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted August 6, 2019 My six year old carbon cycle wings are approaching the point of a re spray so thought that I might give this a go:https://www.frost.co.uk/2k-aero-spray-high-gloss-clear-14148/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_t2mqonu4wIVhvhRCh2ZIgLkEAQYASABEgI1M_D_BwEHas anyone used this or can comment on the product? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Apparently not Geoff. Maybe do the insides first? No mention of UV resistance afaics in the specs. I’ve been exploring this recently and currently fighting shy of lacquer/clear coat because uncertain whether it will makes things worse over time. Apparently the principal problem is moisture ingress via the edges not having been sealed.Certainly reads like good stuff.Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted August 7, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted August 7, 2019 Oh well I am up for trying the frost product & will report back.I do not intend to remove the wings. There is enough flex in the indicator loom to be able to spray in situ. The reason for this is that the wings are bonded well & to break this would be, as far as I am concerned, unwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Understood, mine are just cable tied on. Be very interested to see how you get on. Is this your »other seven » (impressive story). Are they milky or just a bit tired?anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEK Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 My experience on this issue is:Rear carbon fiber wings going milky, so used some spray wax in a yellow can, readily available from UK supermarket. Recommendation came from this forum, that was about three years ago. It made it better and I used it for about a year. Then they started getting milky again and it was just getting worse and worse. After a wet day in the Dolomites last year they were more white than black.Decided to bite the bullet, loads of solvent including acetone used to remove, I hoped, any residual wax. Sprayed them with a 2K Clear coat with the intention of then protecting them with some clear film. Unfortunately or fortunately, before the film was applied came across a chap with a green R500 so went for a blat. The 2K got chipped and then I realised it really hadn't bonded and was able to pull it all off in great big pieces, all except the bit that was under the rear light cluster. So I guess it was related to the previous treatments.So having removed all that first application of 2K I sanded the wings down with 120 then 220 grit on DA sander, then did it again. This seems to have bonded fine, in that again film did not get applied and it chipped but did not peel off. So that then needed to be sanded down again to remove the chips then re sprayed and film applied. For now they look fine but not been out in the wet to test the edge bonding question. All good spraying practice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 came across a chap with a green R500 so went for a blat. real fun it was too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted August 8, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted August 8, 2019 The wings are just a bit tired over the first three quarters where they get ravaged by UV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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