CageyH Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 I have kept mine as I like to keep the heater for those long and damp trips, where a bit of warmth makes it much more bearable.I think the EWP makes sense. After a little blat this afternoon, the fan came on when I was reversing into the garage. It stayed on for a while at tick over, so I lifted the revs to 1500 rpm and the fan soon cut off. So it would seem to me that there is not enough flow at tick over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted April 22, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted April 22, 2019 Kev,I think 3 minutes won't be long enough. What is the current draw? Could you run for 10 and still start the car with ease? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Pump and fan will be about 20 amps.I think that it needs to be running with the engine on, on idle. Then I can turn things off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 The fan probably doesn't need to run all the time. I hate to say it, but the best you can do is to wire in the fan and pump to run without ignition on and then have a thermo switch for each. Brazing a boss in the water rail isn't a big issue. If anything else fail, send it to me and I'll do it for you. I won't re-powdercoat though. It'll just be Hammerite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Where in the circuit should I put the thermostat switches?I have long since moved my senders from the water rail. They are located in the bypass loop, on a submarine pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 The senders are fitted in one of these - https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/2148-cooling-submarine-rover-2-outlet.html?search_query=Submarine&results=4 away from all the exhaust heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 If you have the water rail with bosses for senders I'd try to use the rearmost as it has M10x1 thread. The sensor I'm using is supplied with M14x1.5 but I have turned it down and cut an M10x1 as that was the boss I had brazed in.My switch is located between cyl 2 & 3 facing upwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 I am really tempted just to stick it in the top hose with a thermo switch nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 Has your water rail no bosses for temp sensors? I wouldn't mind modifying a sensor and send it to you. It's a 10 min job. If that much... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Yes, but it has been a long time since I removed the ECU sender.I already have a couple of hose joiners that I can either replace, or drill and tap to suit. I need something where I can replace parts easily if I need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 It is actually the sensor for the gauge you're replacing.I haven't seen your installation, but on my car those sensors are dead easy to replace.This is likely to do the job. They usually kick in a bit earlier than stated:https://www.ebay.de/itm/Thermo-Switch-M10x1-100c-Yellow-191919521d-102937756-919260010-1008100002/283427041445?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D9ad611a0c7f9440780896874ce47b6a3%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D283427041445%26itm%3D283427041445&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042No link because it didn't work yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 22, 2019 Member Share Posted April 22, 2019 Thermo SwitchJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 I was thinking of using the same type of switch as the radiator switch for a fan. I would place this in a threaded adaptor in the top hose. The advantage being they are a pretty universal part. It has an M14 x 1.5mm thread. They are available in a wide range of temperature settings. My thoughts were that as long as the coolant flowing out of the engine has a high temperature, the pump will kick in to circulate the water. As soon as it reaches a suitable temperature, it will turn itself off again. I don't like the sensors being installed above the exhaust manifold, as they seem to get fried on a regular basis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 If I remember correctly, the coolant hoses are 32mm ID? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 24, 2019 Member Share Posted April 24, 2019 If you don't want to fabricate the pipework in metal NB some of the silicone hose suppliers will do custom pieces with reducers, outlets etc.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 I want to implement a solution with readily available parts. That way, If I get a problem somewhere it is easier to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 I was pointing you towards the M10x1 switch for that very reason. However, you'll struggle to source a new water rail if /it/ fails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 My only concern is the switch at 100 degrees.At least with a radiator fan switch, I can chose what temperature to switch the pump on and off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 Given my experience with all the switches I'll happily pay for it if it hasn't switched on at 92 degrees. If you want to bet my bet would be 88. That is for the one marked 100 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 I have no doubt that it will work, but I have bad experience of this position. Being right next to the manifold means that they get cooked over time. Putting the switch in the top hose avoids it getting cooked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 Erhm no, because the water will be flowing even when the engine is turned off. Hence the maximum temp is around 100 degrees which it'll survive :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 Erhm no, because the water will be flowing even when the engine is turned off. Hence the maximum temp is around 100 degrees which it'll survive :-pThe other thing is that it's exactly where the critical high temperature will be measured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 I have bought the Facet version of the switch. I just need to order the pump and a length of black silicon hose now to replace the J hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 26, 2019 Author Share Posted April 26, 2019 Where in the circuit will the pump be? You mentioned that you still have the bypass hose and if you just feed the thermostat housing the flow direction in the bypads will be wrong. The bypass has to be at the feed of the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 That is a good question. I was thinking of under the throttle bodies, but the radiator top hose is another option. I think I need to sketch out the cooling system and understand the flow in the circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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