Doc007 Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 What is the minimum that needs removing to allow me to tighten the bolt that goes up into the roll cage from above the rear shock absorber?It's a 360R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Not sure I understand the question?The shock has to be removed. If the bolts are the thin headed variety buy a cheap socket from Halfords and grind the face flat. You'll see all sockets have a beveled edge and removing this helps get better purchase on the thin head.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Do you have to completely remove the shock or can you leave the bottom end attached and swing the top out of the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Remove it completely. It's a tight fit in the top of the turret and needs a lot of wiggling to align and get the bolt in. You cannot so this if attached to the dedion plus there is a lot of weight in the dedion/brake assembly.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 3, 2017 Member Share Posted June 3, 2017 Have you got the Assembly Guide? Let me know if you need a copy.JonathanPS: That would be the precise opposite of the way the first 7s were sold... ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 The assembly guide doesn't say much. I do remember it being tricky to get the bolt through the bottom of the shock. It seemed determined to sit at an angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Why do you need to tighten it? I never do these very tight because getting them out is almost impossible if they get stuck. And they aren't really vital to the roll cage's purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 I've had an annoying metallic rattling that seems to come me from over my left shoulder in the vacinity of the roll bar. DPR said there was a creaking coming from the roll bar when pushing the car around. Doesn't seem to be the hood sticks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Just took the hood sticks off.20yd of test drive revealed they were not the culprit.: ( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 4, 2017 Member Share Posted June 4, 2017 Passenger + stethoscope?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 On the imperial chassis the shocks have been known to touch the thin head bolts creating a knock. If you strip to tighten the bolt I'd take it out and copper grease it then refit. They can rust in and with the thin head can shear.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Mine is a metric 2015 chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 I took the shock off and the roll cage (caphead) bolt was tight : (But the top of the shock was touching the inner aluminium panel. I 'modified' the panel with a hammer and the rattle is gone!!!Job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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