abbot Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 The engine document state torque to be applied in the correct sequence in 2 steps.My question: Is there any possible risk associated with doing it in more than 2 steps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 28, 2017 Member Share Posted February 28, 2017 Is it a simple "torque to defined torque limit" method?I very much doubt that there is. Or that anyone has done the experiment!Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 yes torque to a limit in 2 steps.Just wondered if there was some special process in the head gasket compression process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Not sure how directly relevant it is but ...On a K Series the specified procedure is 20 Nm in sequence, then two lots of 180° in sequence. However I've seen a video of them being assembled on the line at Longbridge and they used a big rig that tightened all the head bolts simultaneously.I think the important think is to spread the load evenly, so not do up any one bolt too much without letting the others catch up. So in the case of the K Series I don't see any harm in doing four lots of 90° in sequence. In fact that's what I've usually done as I just find it easier that trying to go round 180° on a breaker bar. I'll probably get told off now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I too have done 4 x 90° on K series head bolts it feels more even, it certainly does no harm.20 Nm not 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Job sorted. Good excuse to buy a new tool, ie a big torque wrench with same scales as small one. (Halfords Proffessional). Dry bolts and nuts. Clicked into place just nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I've not done a K series head but from the above I assume that the head is fixed with bolts rather than studs and nuts.If bolts, always make sure that the bolt holes in the block are absolutely dry and free of any oil, water etc. Otherwise you will get hydraulic lock as you tighten the bolts and they will not go fully home and, if you try to fully tighten you will shear it off!I wonder how I know that..................?Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Paul, the K uses a sandwich construction. The "head bolts" are actually something like 35cm long and pass clean through the block and crankshaft ladder and the threaded tips screw into the oil control rail which is right down in the sump, clamping the whole engine in compression. The holes in the oil control rail are open, in fact the bolts project through the bottom of the rail, so the situation you describe cannot arise on a K. Well worth remembering on other engines though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted March 7, 2017 Area Representative Share Posted March 7, 2017 On a k series it is important to use oil or better still engine building lube on the bolts especially under the head of the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Interesting comments. I did not clarify in this thread but the engine in question is a 998cc Classic A series Mini engine. It is my other project to stop me playing too much with the X-Flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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