abbot Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I am currently working on my Mini project and rebuilding the engine.I have already had one disaster as had a brain fart in setting my big torque wrench and sheared a stud flush with the top of teh block. Nightmare to remove.So yesterday I was back to the point of doing up the head bolts.Did the initial stage at a low level then went to the next step and all was looking good however when i went to the final torque the nut just kept turning without any increased resistance and it was uncomfortably past the point where I would expect a click.So I think some thing is really wrong and almost certainly will have to take the head off and get new bolts and head gasket again.The only thing I can think of is that the studs may not have been oil free and that prevented the nuts from achieving the torque.Anything else to be aware of before I go at it again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hope this helps http://www.minimania.com/Mini_Torque_Wrench_Settings_597 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Wow thanks Elie, I was about to reply "I know what the torque should be" but looking at the dat ain that chart the Torque is a about 10 Ibs/ft lower than what it says in my Haynes manual. Will now go off to my Mini forum and ask some question there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mel Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Classic Mini or BMW MINI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 ClassicData on The Mini Forum confirms the lower torque setting so I have posted a question to confirm the error in the Haynes manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mel Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I always do them to 50lb/ft with standard studs. Never had an issue. Is your torque wrench correctly calibrated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbot Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 It is a couple of years old and have never had it calibrated. Is there a simple method to do a calibration in a domestic environment? I think the route cause could be oil on the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 6, 2017 Member Share Posted February 6, 2017 Is there a simple method to do a calibration in a domestic environment? This, or similar.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mel Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 It's worth checking, mine was miles out. We've got a torque calibration machine at my place of work so it was easy for me, hopefully that's your issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical Moz Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Rover 76-89 factory manual says 40 lb/ft for "emmissions control engine" (the one with air injection into the cylinder head), which is probably why Minimania have that value in their chart as I think it was an American market engine. The factory manual states 50lb/ft for all other 850/1000/1100/1275 engines.Tighten in sequence to 50% torque, then in sequence again to full torque. If you'd like a link to these manuals let me know and I'll BM you one, they are a bit more technical than the Haynes ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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