Smithy77 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Yes makes sense. That's why I made my bypass 16mm ID, as per the OEM set-up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 22, 2017 Member Share Posted February 22, 2017 Well done.I was about to recommend adding a lot of sensors to monitor what's happening in the different phases but that might not be necessary...Looking forward to the "back in the pits" data.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Jonathan, you will see from the pics a series of bits of blue masking tape in various places. These are where I take laser thermometer readings. Not the most scientific, but cheap and easy and it works.Generally, the water rail temp (adjacent to the sensors) gets to about 98c by the time the fan kicks in. The temp of the rad (adjacent to the thermoswitch) gets to 94c when the fan kicks in and it cuts out when it drops to about 85c. The temp of the submarine when the fan kicks in is about 90c, and the temp reading rapidly counts down like a stop watch with the fan on (to about 80c) while I hold the laser thermometer on it. All sounds pretty healthy to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Glad you seem to have a solution that works for you, however not sure why the PRT didnt work as when correctly fitted these are a simple very effective solution offering a full flow bypass, good warm up times with rapid response to temperature changes.Not saying this was true in your case but it is possible to fit the PRT he wrong way as correctly fitted it looks wrong initially as the hot feed seems to be going backwards into the PRT in order to flow hot water over the wax bulb, ISTR later ones had flow arrows on them the early versions though were plain.Once in the PRT works he same as a domestic shower taking a hot feed via he T piece in the top hose, a cold from the radiator outlet and the outlet return to he engine being constant (the shower head).I fed the expansion bottle return into a shortened submarine pipe which I inserted between the T piece and PRT, perfect operation and no airlock problems either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 7WOTW, yes it was strange how the PRT was behaving. I'm 100% sure it was fitted correctly - the single inlet end connected to the bottom rad hose, bypass hose from the top hose connected to the outlet with the springy pressure valve, and the outlet with arrow and the word "pump" connected to the return hose. Brand new genuine PRT too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Looking forward to the "back in the pits" data.Well, Jonathan, I'm happy to report that temps (both oil and water, but more importantly water) behaved impeccably all day! Both seemed happy to sit at around the 80-85c mark all day long, both in the colder/wetter/pussy footing sessions and the harder dry sessions. (N.B. the temp guage under-reads by 5-10c at this sort of temp)All in all, very pleased that my own version of the OEM cooling system works very well, and as I've said, I now have the advantage of an accessible thermostat. I'm so happy with it in fact, I'll even put my cock on the block and go on record by saying that I'll do this mod on any future K-series I own! So fingers crossed, I shan't be bothering you with anymore K-cooling threads from me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 27, 2017 Member Share Posted February 27, 2017 Well done, as indeed you would be.:-)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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