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R400 Duratec: oil pressure readings with mechanical gauge


John Vine

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For any Duratec owner considering this mod, I thought it might be helpful to list the bits I ordered from Think Automotive (£42 incl VAT and P&P):

1x OPG100W -- 0-100psi gauge with white dial (an approximate match to my silver dials).  For a black dial, order OPG100
1x GL6 -- gauge line 6 feet, 1/8" BSP x 1/8" BSP
1x MMS 10-3-4 -- steel adaptor 1/8" BSP x 1/4" NPTF, replacing the standard Caerbont electronic sender

There are some photos here. Note that I routed the gauge line through the bulkhead rather than via the hole in front of the gear lever.  This was simply because the hole was already full, as I've two fat FIA battery master switch cables in there.

JV

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just wanted to say "Thank you" for taking the time to post this info.  My OP sensor died on a track day a week ago and if I hadnt found this post it wouldve taken me a heck of a lot longer to put everything together.

You've helped me out in the past with your posts Mr Vine and this is no exception. :)

Very much appreciated!

 

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Yes, I see.

For info, my oil filter plate looks like this:

Duratecoilfilterplate.jpg.008652210b7bb8893439e84b6bbd2ea0.jpg

It's a Raceline item, I think.

The standard Caerbont electric sender fits in the threaded hole at the top.  I replaced this with the adaptor.  IIRC, there's a second take-off on the left behind the filter flange (can't check as I'm away from the car).

As an alternative, would this Jenvey plate be suitable for your Moggie?

JV

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Hi John, 

Not a problem to share pressure readings.  We've both got R400's so makes sense.
Assuming all the bits n pieces arrive (Im doing an oil change and a bit of maintenance at the same time) then I should be able to post them this weekend. 


 

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Thanks for that, Tom. 

Did you bleed the gauge line?  I didn't at first but did later after reading Andrew Revill's recent post,  The gauge certainly responds instantly now.  Of course, it may have done before but I wasn't really watching that closely.  Also, what route did you choose for the line?

JV   

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Hi John, 

I didn't initially bleed the cable, but I realised it would have air trapped which is unlikely to ever get out.  So yes, I bled it.  I ended up getting the oil line in place, poking out the dash and then starting the engine. A little jug underneath was plenty to catch the small stream of oil coming out.  I must admit I was expecting it to be fired out the cable like a super soaker... glad it wasn't :)
Can't say I noticed any difference in response time.  

In terms of the route, I had a look at the bunch of cables in front of the gear stick and there was nowhere near enough room for me to put anything through there.  So I opted for drilling through inside of the heater blower cover and then feeding it out the bottom of that cover. I did have to drill an additional hole in the bottom of the heater blower cover to allow for drainage.

Photo shows the cable just going through the bare hole, but Ive got some rubber grommets coming from car builder solutions to tidy that up.

ps: Its a bit of a pain to post photos on this forum.... ;)

OP-Cable.jpg.fa8bc9fe590fb62181e2335e81b53252.jpg

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.Thank you John.

For the detailed stock numbers.

I have placed the parts on order and expect that they will be there on my return to the UK.

I will then update you of the readings that are indicated.

At present the readings are up on those that you published, however i will test the calibration of the new unit before i place it in parallel with the existing gage.

Best regards

Robert.

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