ben2 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 HiYesterday my 2004 K series 1800 SV developed some interesting electric problems.firstly when I started it there was no ignition light. Later at some traffic lights the ignition light came on but cleared shortly after that. When I got to work, switched the lights on and the car died. Battery dead and car wouldn't start.We restarted the car with jump leads and measured the alternator voltage across the terminals and it was 11.55v.I arranged a lift home curtesy of the RAC (they were brilliant, BTW), and have bought a new alternator.Before I get the spanners out, it looks mighty tight to get the alternator out. So couple of questions:- is the randomness of the ignition light to be expected with a failed alternator - will the alternator drop out from underneath - I've got an Apollo tank so can't go forward, or do I have to take the exhaust manifold off too?Thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Piers300 Posted January 17, 2015 Area Representative Share Posted January 17, 2015 I had to change the alternator due to the top mounting bracket cracking on my 1.8 2004 R300 S3 and I had to remove the primaries to remove the alternator.Make sure you note what go where for easy re-assembly (exhaust wise), as it is a bit of a fiddle, plus have the exhaust high temp sealant ready for the pipe work when putting back together. New gasket for the exhaust manifold is a good idea.It is a very tight fit to remove and replace the alternator on an S3 K. Check the wiring and connector to the alternator has not been heat damaged by the exhaust. Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert Donaldson Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Good evening,I feel your pain.Its extremely tight to get the alternator out. On mine I have to remove the exhaust primaries first. then remove both the top and bottom alternator securing bolt to allow the belt to be removed (there is not enough adjustment to allow first adjusting to the slackest position then removing). It becomes awkward after this. Slide the alternator back out of the upper mount and rotate up to allow clearance of the engine mount. 90 % of the positions you end up in allow no further movement but persevere Then bring it towards the rear of the car, turn 90 degrees and drop down in front of passenger footwell to remove from under the car. The first time I did this it took 2 hrs to get out (I did it again last night in prep for engine removal and it took 10 mins). If necessary loosen the passenger side engine mount and jack under the sump to gain some space, or remove the bracket from the block completely. Its extremely awkward but it will come.I had the same symptoms as you. It was cured by fitting a new rectifier and turning the rear of the alternator 120 degrees as the heat from primary one had melted it.http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Alternatorsee above how to disassemble and its obvious how to turn the rear to put the rectifier out of the way of heat.Good luckAlbert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 17, 2015 Member Share Posted January 17, 2015 - is the randomness of the ignition light to be expected with a failed alternator No, I would typically expect the light to go on as usual but then stay on. But there may be faults in the alternator's electronics pack that could cause this.What was the engine speed when you saw that voltage?I'd do the following before concluding the fault lies in the alternator: Check alternator belt. Check alternator spins nicely with the belt loose. Visual inspection and wiggle of wires and earths. With a charged battery connected (could be jumped) measure the battery voltage at rest, during cranking and at 3,000 rpm. With a charged battery connected check what the ignition light does ditto. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben2 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 HiJust to tie this up, I recharged the battery and took the car to a local mechanic, who did a number of tests and confirmed the alternator (well rectifiers) were shot. We checked all earths and and the voltage at 3000 rpm, and it was well down at 11v or so.To change the alternator I did have to take the exhaust and primarys off. Access to the alternator bolts is a bit of a pain and I had checked that the new alternator had the adjustment screw hole fully threaded (it wasn't) before fitting the new one.Quite straightforward, took around an hour.Thanks for the help and adviceMark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 20, 2015 Member Share Posted January 20, 2015 Well done.Which alternator did you fit, please?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben2 Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Hi JonathanIt was a reconditioned AC Delco(?) unit. I think its a rebuilt Bosch unit. RegardsMark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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