revilla Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I shall be swapping the engine in my Seven in the next couple of weeks. It's a K Series VVC in an SV chassis, so a little more wiggle room around the engine than in an S3. 2003 RoadSport so no removal engine bay chassis rails. One engine coming out, one absolutely identical replacement engine going in, so no need to change anything in the wiring or plumbing. As I understand it from reading previous threads, with an engine crane there should be enough room to maneuver the engine forwards off the gearbox input shaft, leaving the gearbox and bellhousing in situ (supported from underneath). If I have problems separating the engine from the bellhousing I can use the clutch. I'll protect all the chassis tubes and the edges of the bodywork with pip lagging and take it slowly. I'll plan the route in and out and ensure I have plenty of access room with the crane before I start. Will need to transfer the clutch from one engine to the other, so will need to center it carefully and ensure the spigot bearing in the new crank is greased. Other than the above and disconnecting all pipes and wires attaching the engine to the car and removing the engine mounts and anything that gets in the way ... anything else I need to know? What are the best attachment points for ropes and straps? What do people tend to use for these? Thanks. Edited by - revilla on 11 Jul 2014 22:40:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj247 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I still have the original hoist bracket that my 1.6 K series came with which bolts onto the engine but Loughborough is a bit far unless anyone is heading that way. You're welcome to borrow it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slipper man Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I just use thin (1 inch) webbing for this. The engine is very light so you can wiggle it aroud to get the best angles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2GBR Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Like wise i use a 2 inch section from an old ratchet strap (often seen laying on motorways) my friendly shoe repair man then stitched a hook with a loop which i fabricated to each end,This goes around the engine between cylinders 2 n 3 and meet together around 6 inches from top of engine then into the hook on the engine hoist. Engine then sits balanced and you can rotate engine within the sling to line up bell housing mounting spigots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 12, 2014 Member Share Posted July 12, 2014 Quoting revilla: One engine coming out, one absolutely identical replacement engine going in, so no need to change anything in the wiring or plumbing.We'll see... Is this a convenient thread to ask about advantages and disadvantages of removing the gearbox with the engine or splitting them in the car? I've only done installation with them together when I first built the car... and it wasn't the hardest task. Benefit of using a load leveller discussed somewhere. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 We'll see... If not I cocked my build up, they are supposed to be twins! I will report back when the deed is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Jonathan I always split (VX). It's easier to have just the engine swinging on the crane rather than engine and box (less chance of collision damage). Depending on the car, there are also probably slightly fewer bolts etc to undo this way. It's always a pain to relocate the propshaft when replacing the gearbox and usually a 2 man job to line up, but against that it's sometimes difficult to engage the clutch onto the gearbox input shaft if adopting the engine only route. One major plus in engine only is that you run no risk of tipping a load of gearbox oil onto the garage floor (which can be avoided by capping off the gearbox end). I only take the gearbox out If I need to work on the gearbox ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 12, 2014 Member Share Posted July 12, 2014 Thanks Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I always split (K series). Same reasons. Always comes out/goes in easily (unless you try with a bent engine mount ) Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Engine and gearbox in one piece on my 1982 chassis, and then I need to remove crank pulley and gearbox cover plate ☹️. Nothings ever easy. Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 I shall be splitting. Job planned for Saturday. Will let you know how it goes. Stand by for lots of 😬 😬 😬 😬 or lots of 🙆🏻 😔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Just got back from a spin around the block behind my new engine 😬 Started work about 9:00 this morning, finished about 17:00, driving it by 17:30. Started first time, no DTCs, no airlocks. Sounds and feels fine. The only thing I have noticed is the oil and water temperatures ran noticeably higher than the with the other engine, although both rock steady, and the oil pressure was a bit lower. This may have something to do with it being 29C outside! I'm running a bit hot today myself. Will take it for another run when it cools off, bit generally seems to be OK. Definitely couldn't have done it so easily without a decent engine crane. I did have a bit of a problem getting the engine off the gearbox, not the dowels which popped off easily when I put my foot on the clutch but something else was catching. It was similarly awkward going back on. I think the clutch plate was just a bit tight on the input shaft splines. While I had in bits I did change the CRB, but I measured the compressed clutch plate thickness with a caliper and it was 7.0mm - I think they are 7.37mm new, so it's hardly worn at all and went back in. There were no signs of oil leaks inside the bell housing and the clutch fork is indeed the standard Ford one and looked fine (and about bomb-proof). I think the trickiest bit was putting that stupid rubber boot back over the clutch arm port - twice the matal clip flicked out and fell into the bell housing and took 10 minutes each time to fish out with a magnet on a stick. I'll give it a good check over for leaks and tighten everything up again tomorrow. PS: One more vote for splitting if there's nothing needing doing with the gearbox. Edited by - revilla on 18 Jul 2014 20:10:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 18, 2014 Member Share Posted July 18, 2014 Sounds good: well done. What's a DTC in this context? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Well done and glad all looks well Assuming you've centred the clutch plate, difficulty in re engaging the clutch with the gearbox first motion shaft is usually due to the engine being too high/low so adjusting the crane helps. ALSO if the face of the bellhousing is not parallel to the block, that will cause difficulties. Adjust the jack which (should be) supporting the gearbox. Adjustment of these 2 areas makes refitting much easier .... Edited by - ECR on 19 Jul 2014 09:28:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Good work! I told you it would be a piece of urine and that you'd have it done in a day. If you've done all the prep work as you have, then it is basically a textbook swap. DTC = diagnostic trouble code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 18, 2014 Member Share Posted July 18, 2014 Thanks Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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