How is scuttle vertical panel fixed in place?

[Roger Ford]

My scuttle came unmounted, and I need to fix it. The vertical panel (bulkhead) has just two holes drilled in it, but I'm not sure how these should be mounted to the chassis. Don't think I can fit rivnuts, since there's a double skin of metal (the panel fits between them) and a square chassis tube directly behind.

 

Pop-riveting would be easy, but would make it hard to remove. Which leaves self-tappers. Is that the normal way to do it?

 

[phil 01]

Hi Roger, Have a look at Jason Fetcher's build on the Caterham forum on Pistonheads I think his call sign is purespeed

Regards Phil

 

[CharlesElliott]

Are you talking about how the vertical panel attaches to the scuttle at the top, or the chassis rail/alu at the bottom?

[Drumster]

My front bulkhead just sits in the groove at the bottom (no fixings at all), there are 2 M8(?) holes for attaching to the steering column tube, and the top of the bulkhead has just 12 x 4mm rivnuts where the front lip of the scuttle is attached. This means that if I need to get to the electrics, removing the scuttle is no more than a 10 minute job.

[Drumster]

PS From memory neither the scuttle/bulkhead came pre-drilled..

[paul richards]

*arrowup* *arrowup*What Chris says is correct *arrowup*

Except that the "normal" way of attaching the vertical panel to the scuttle is by 4mm pop rivets rather than rivnuts. Either will work, but likely to be a little gap if you use rivnuts.

 

Edited to add that the vertical panel and horizontal panel are usually finished with a bit os silicon sealer.

 

Edited by - Paul Richards on 18 Dec 2011 15:45:14

[CharlesElliott]

It's all been said now.

 

As standard, the scuttle is attached to the bulkhead with 5/32" rivets (remember, this is imperial :-). I have replaced with M5 panheads/rivnuts.

 

At the bottom, the panel just sits in the slot - sealed with silicon from the factory but mine has long been cut away. Because the bulkhead tends to have quite a lot attached to it, it is generally more difficult to remove than undoing the panheads above and just lifting off the scuttle itself.

[Roger Ford]

Thanks, it was bulkhead to chassis I was worried about. I've already drilled out the 24 rivets holding the scuttle to the bulkhead, and replaced with 8 x M4 rivnuts. So it seems I don't have to worry about bulkhead to chassis, though I think it may need some fireproof sealant.

[Roger Ford]

Extension question - how's the best way to fix the scuttle top to the top dash hoop? On my old one, there were two popper studs for the tonneau cover, and these were pop-riveted through the scuttle top and the dash hoop.

 

I'd much rather not have to drill out those rivets to get the scuttle off - is it possible to hold the poppers (which I'll still need) on with self-tappers? What size would they need to be?

[CharlesElliott]

Some decent sized alu rivet washers (or steel ones?) and rivets would do the trick?

[Roger Ford]

Eh? What's a rivet washer, other than a washer you use with a rivet? How does that help me?

[CharlesElliott]

I thought you were trying to avoid fastening to the chassis rail (I misread your post).

 

I use self tappers for those poppers, think I use no 6 x 1/2.....basically whatever fits through the hole in the popper base.

[Drumster]

Yep, self-tappers for me. Been like that since I bought the 7 in 1999. Can't recall the size, but make sure you use counter-sunk self tappers to ensure the heads seat properly in the popper base otherwise the popper on the tonneau won't clip on properly IYSWIM.