Steve Campbell Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 OK...I've removed the 4 *6mm mini nuts underneath that frees up the unit from the 2 alu holding frame things..but it doesn't seem to want to come out ?? It won't come out "straight" as the top of the scuttle blocks it, and it doesn't seem to want to come out if you ease the bottom away first as its too tight ! *confused* Didn't want to use my usual brute force and ignorance in case I split the carbon dash ! Help ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeandlizzy Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Mine fits tight into the dash. I have never removed it without the scuttle removed, however. You will be hard pressed to crack the dash, so push a bit harder is my suggestion or remove the scuttle (or just the right side bolts of the scuttle to give you a a cm or so extra space to work). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Some info towards bottom of this thread Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Fowler Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 I had to remove my scuttle. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark w Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Steve Mine is like yours but it does come out , when it does you will think ,blimey that was easy how did i do that ? you then won't be able to refit it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 Thanks all.......so does it come out from the bottom first.....what's the trick ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budjuggler Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Waiting with interest - as mine needs to come out ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Reaper Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I found I had to remove the two screws holding the press-stud bases in the middle of the dash top to allow the scuttle/dash surround to be lifted just enough to allow the stack to clear the folded front edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative bluenose Posted November 9, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted November 9, 2011 I rang Stack today as my dash is 11 years old and I do not think it has had a new battery sinc new, oh and it mists up as well ☹️. The guy I spoke to was not very sure what I would be charged for the battery replacement and new seals but after some pressure he indicated a price of around £150 -£200 Now just need to save up and remove it from the car. Suppose its scuttel off time again Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Will be having another go this weekend....unfortunately didn't get the chance last weekend as the weird and crazy positions you need to get into to actually looking under the dash resulted in a Sunday not able to move and a very sore back !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budjuggler Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Try a small mirror? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeandlizzy Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 200! I would consider servicing it yourself. How hard could it be? I am sure it has a silica pouch you could dry out, then source a battery? Willing to bet it is easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Fowler Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Its a sealed unit and once the seal is broken its a new glass minimum. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 Well....it doesn't come out....I think I'd have to take the windscreen and scuttle off to get it out...I tried for 20 mins with mirrors, different angles and various levels of brute force...... ☹️ So now I'm looking at finding the right wires outside the Stack that are more accessible for the job in hand...problem is I'm no electrician.... The tiny live green wire for Stack is tightly bunched at the back of the stack wiring so no chance for that....and so are the other earth wires.....I'm trying to fit DRE lights ..the tacho wires seem easy to get at as it has a large loop that I can access.... I now need a live and an earth...earth seems easy..I can just link direct into the earth point near the master cut off.... One thought for live was to try and tap into the heated screen live wire........anyone know if this will work ? Is that wire live all the time even if screen switched off ? What about how does the horn work...is one side of that live all the time that I could cut into ?? it has one black wire going in and one purple wire...assume black is live ? PS I have no testing kit or ability to test what is really live and what is not, HELP...should have taken it to James Whiting to fit ! Now I'm shouting at the car again.....stupid thing.... 😬 Edited by - Steve Campbell on 12 Nov 2011 15:59:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Fowler Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Can't you tap into the live side of the master switch? Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 What does it look like 😬 Electricity is not my forte ! and if I did that is there a chance my battery would drain ? What wires on the "out" side could I tap into....if anyone knows the ins and outs I could take some pictures and share ..... so I know what wire to cut ! 😳 Edited by - Steve Campbell on 12 Nov 2011 16:49:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 Ok done. Phew ! The stack would not come out so I eventually used master switch live and earth and the tacho wire was accessible below the stack. What a pain of a job for 3 little wires. Oh well...off for a blat to try the shift lights now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 Quoting Steve Campbell: Ok done. Phew ! The stack would not come out so I eventually used master switch live and earth and the tacho wire was accessible below the stack. What a pain of a job for 3 little wires. Oh well...off for a blat to try the shift lights now Update: DRE lights work...had to scour the archives first and eventually realised in needs to be set at cyls 1 and not cyls 4....now working fine.....yeeeehaaaa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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