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Removing a roll cage


Roger Ford

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Anyone got any good hints?

 

This is a Caged Roadsport cage (diagonal top, X-shaped rear).

 

All the bolts are removed (including the ones above the rear dampers) but I just can't shift the rear mounts (the main rear hoop). I've tried hammering screwdrivers in and using a jack between the top rail and the cage, but it won't move.

 

Other than cutting it off with an angle grinder, any suggestions?

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By "above the rear dampers", do you mean the bolts which point upwards from under the car?

(just checking)

 

If that's fine, you could try replacing the bolts in the two backstays. Then lift at the front of the cage. You'll get a leverage ratio of about 3:1 at the feet on the roll-hoop/rear bulkhead.

 

The bosses on the foot of the cage which go into the chassis socket can rust but I doubt they would actually rust to bind together with the chassis. Mabe some sideways shock with mallet would help?

 

Mind not to dent the cage tubes!

 

 

Peter

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By "above the rear dampers", do you mean the bolts which point upwards from under the car?

(just checking)

Yes.

If that's fine, you could try replacing the bolts in the two backstays. Then lift at the front of the cage. You'll get a leverage ratio of about 3:1 at the feet on the roll-hoop/rear bulkhead.

That's worth a go - though there's not much to lever against at the front. I had tried that without putting the backstay bolts back.

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  • Leadership Team

Assuming you've removed all 8 bolts - 2 in from each side on each front leg (4), 2 upwards through the suspension turrets and 1 on each rear stay (2) then all that remains is for the cage to be freed. If it's an Imperial chassis the "bosses" that appear to be stuck will be quite deep, around 1" - trying to lever upwards from the front may not help. Instead try using ratchet straps on the rear main hoop (the bit that would in itself be a rollbar) up to a joist in the garage - then tighten the straps to apply gentle upward pressure. Then squirt plenty of WD40 around the bottom legs of the cage and leave it to soak - chances are it's just rusted in. Cages are not a perfect fit and it may be under quite a lot of tension/stresses which will not be helping.

 

Stu.

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if you still have the rear shocks out, can you put a normal bolt (preferably not a cut down head one) part way into the boss and give the head a good upwards belt to free the cage lugs? Might be easier with the wings off although you may find that, once on side starts to move, the other will free up too.

 

bonne chance.

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Stu - I don't have a joist in the garage, but even if I did I don't think the sort of force you could apply with a ratchet strap would have much effect, given what I've done to it so far.

 

Paul, that sounds worth a try, if I can find a suitable bolt. If it was metric, I'm sure that would be easy, but I'll see what I've got.

 

I've squirted plenty of WD40 on there. I don't have any PlusGas at the moment - I've just ordered some. Maybe that will help.

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  • Area Representative
I used a big lump of wood to protect the cage and a lump hammer and gave it several hard taps upwards where the side bars meet the vertical legs above the rear suspension. It took several taps/thumps to free my old VX one
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