Miura Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 DIY numpty here: I have to scrub off peeling powdercoat and surface rust before I can start the POR15 treatment on my chassis. As I dont own any powertool I have to buy/rent or borrow. Question: is a standard battery powered 1000/1300 rpm drill powerful enough to do the job or do I need an angle grinder? also what are the best wire brush to use? brass? other space age material? oh by the way, I have to work in a lock up with no electricity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Escargot Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Battery power should be fine for small areas (depending on area you may need to recharge or have spare battery at the ready) I would use a hand scraper first to get rid of any loose flaking paint then use a steel wire 'cup' brush of about 30 to 40mm dia. (if heavily corroded use a course hand file to get rid of any heavy rust). Once you have cleared the area to bright metal (there maybe some light pitting still visible) use a proprietor rust killer before painting (hammerite do a treatment kit + their 'smooth' black finish paint is not bad either) Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irrotational Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I got a lot of it off via wire brush and sand paper - wouldnt recommend it though! It depends where you're working - i was under the car working on the little rear chassis tubes and a frame - a Dremel drill would have been perfect size for this! An electric drill would have been a bit too big/cumbersome.. I would have thought an electric drill would get through the stuff no problem though!? With POR 15 you dont need to get the rust off completely - only loose rust plus powder coat... Wouldn't an angle grinder go through the chassis tubes!? If you're tlaking about something bigger like a Land rover chassis or somehting then I odnt really know - sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irrotational Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Sorry - as per Nick above - POR do a pre-treatment which kills the rust and gets it ready for painting...i believe it's called metal ready! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Bill Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 POR is pretty famous for being an acronym of Paint On Rust. Reckon that you could get it right with a good wire brush and plenty of elbow grease, so a fully charged battery drill with wire wheel would be fine for all but the awkward/deep stuff. BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 You'll be fine but a bigger drill will make it easier. A Dremel has no chance apart from cleaning up very small areas. Hand wire brushing is OK, if you go at it with gusto it's remarkablygood. You don't have to get it to shiny metal after all, just remove the loose flaky stuff. If the cordless drill you have isn't up to it, why not buy a corded drill if you have elec supply? They are dirt cheap and very effective. When my PC went brown and flaky I just gave it a scrub with a wire brush and a coat of chassis black. It lasted well enough for 2 years, Fishy Dave has the car now and it doesn't seem to be in a disastrous state. Sometimes a quick and dirty job done every couple of years is an effective solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miura Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 thanks guys , powder coating is now flaking in places and it is only surface rust, nothing serious (no paint bubbling on side skins for instance)... I know POR works directly on rust but cosmetically, it doesn't look too good when you paint over rust, I'd rather scrub the flaky bits, use marine clean, metal ready then POR15 then POR chassis paint. I know it is tedious but the results will cosmetically be better BOSS: I have no electricity supply in the garage, hence battery powered drill a must Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Ah yes, you did say you had no power, sorry. Anyway, a steel wire brush in a decent cordless drill will rip the loose stuff off then it's up to you how shiny you want it before you repaint. I was just a bit lazy with mine and it is after all BOSS, certain standards have to be maintained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 You should bear in mind that POR15 sticks much better to rusty metal - Ive applied it to shiney steel without the primer, and it peels off really easily. You really need the primer, or apply it to the rust, albeit having removed any loose material. I regret cleaning the chassis to bare steel behind the interior panels, not priming and applying POR15 directly as have a niggling concern that the POR15 could peel and I wouldnt be able to see or do anything about it, short of taking the internal panels out again. I need an endoscope! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ged Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I've just done this job, I really don't envy you. I used a combination of a cup brush, hand wire brush, very coarse emery sheet and very coarse emery tape. To be honest I found the emery to be the best at removing the loose powder coat and any rust underneath. Make sure you de-grease everything first, otherwise whatever you use will soon clog and transfer grease to other areas. I used the POR15 chassis kit, unfortunately this meant painting black over black. Not ideal when you're laid under a car in poor light with misted up goggles. Make sure you cover every square inch of skin, POR15 does not come off, well not for about 4-5 days. 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris F Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thomas, I have done this too... I used a battery drill with an assortment of wire brushes... I bought a paint/rust removing pad for the drill too (from B&Q)... That worked well and took it back to bare shiney metal quite easily. Where the powdercoating is not bubbling/peeling I would suggest leaving it in place, I then roughened it up a little with a wire brush and painted over. I've got spare tins of POR15 and a big bottle of Metal Ready - if you haven't got some then you're more than welcome to some of it... One last point - make sure you wear safety googles and a face mask - I made the mistake of only wearing safety specs and got a spec of metal in my eye, which then rusted - it wasn't very pleasant when the doctor started scraping away my cornea! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miura Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thanks guys, I should have said I have done it before a few years ago but without power tools. straightforward but tedious after a while .. I have alos experienced the "interesting" (read unwanted 😬) POR-15 sticking abilities Chris, I have loads of POR15, chassis paint and POR marine clean but only a small metal ready tin so I will gladly accept your offer for metal ready. Beers on me next Month Edited by - Miura on 7 Mar 2011 17:47:15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris F Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Edited by - Chris F on 8 Mar 2011 11:17:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miura Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Hi Chris, thanks I am in no great hurry but will text you if I decide to go ahead before the next clapham meet. I have written your number down, you can now delete it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now