Removing Dizzy on A Series - now replaced with symptoms...

[bstark]

I won't bore you with the details (other than to say MG Midgets have a LOT of stupidly placed items to make removing a starter motor a right pain 😔) but the last thing I need to do is remove is the distributor.

 

I've unbolted the mounting plate from the block (but kept the clamp tight and marked it all so hopefully will be able to avoid mucking up the timing when I put it back together) but all I can do is spin the thing - it doesn't want to pull out.

 

Is there a key involved or something that I need to align to free the thing up?

 

Bob Stark

Supersprinter

 

Edited by - bstark on 26 Sep 2010 10:16:28

[oilyhands]

There is an 'O' ring on the outside that can sometimes make it difficult to remove, a sharp tug as you turn the body should bring it out.

 

Oily

[John Vine]

MG Midgets

Yes, I seem to recall (from the 70s) a similar problem on my wife's 1965 car. I think Oily has the answer (as usual).

 

JV

[bstark]

Thanks Oily - will give that a go

 

Bob Stark

Supersprinter

[Doug]

But be careful the drive shaft doesn't come partly out and then drop into the engine. I remember doing just that on my old 1098cc Midget

 

'Have you any idea what it's like to have the wind rushing through your hair!' (Quote:Sq Cdr the Lord Flashheart)

[bstark]

Doug - that sounds alarming - is it likely? How do I avoid that?

 

Bob Stark

Supersprinter

[Brian Soper]

I would set the engine up first ie TDC no 1 then remove , it will be the O ring holding it , there is nothing you can do to stop the drive shaft moving as well but never happen to me before , its is easy to replace if it comes out you just need a long rocker box stud to lower it in. Suggest you get any A series manual or online to see parts etc and set up procedure ( I could copy if rquired and send attatchments)

 

I have had lots of A series engine cars including my S2 7 ( but never a midet but I have remove an engine from one ) and I can never remember removing a distributorto remove a starter

 

Brian

[OliverSedlacek]

The dizzy has a flat peg that engages with a drive shaft. The dizzy should just pull out, leaving the drive shaft in the engine. The danger comes if you try to remove the drive shaft, because if you pull it out a short distance and then let go it will fall into the engine. That's a 'sump off' job to retrieve.

[bstark]

aaah - joy

 

Brian - with you on that, but its the only available route - the others are all blocked by chassis members / engine / oil filter and housing / brake lines / the steering column etc. It's a right pain 😔

 

Bob Stark

Supersprinter

[bstark]

Ok - the starter swap was straightforward but now have some different issues - probably timing related - now its all back together.

 

The car has a 123 electronic ignition (effectively replaced the dizzy wholesale), but when I went to take it out I found the cap moving relative to the dizzy body, as well as the dizzy able to move relative to the block as the mounting screws were finger tight and the holes elongated (by design looking at it).

 

So, I'm going to get a new cap and rotor anyway as the contacts look pretty worn, and it surely shouldn't move like that.

 

Would the timing explain the following symptoms? (worried I might have done something else):

 

- Car started VERY easily and pulled really strongly from idle, tailing off as you got close to 4500rpm (too retarded?)

 

- As the day went the idle speed slowly increased until it was hunting from 1200-1400rpm (it's been pretty high for a while though) - (dizzy moving from the torque of the drive?)

 

- Running slightly hotter than usual (Still only 72 degree) until you hit traffic then it climbs rapidly. SWMBO panicked as it reached 95 and still climbing so we switched off and let it cool down (it NEVER does this - still has an engine driven fan).

 

Other thing (could be a red herring as I had also repaired several splits in the pipe that feeds outside air to the heater through the engine bay) - the heater output was much lower than usual

 

 

My plan is to change cap and rotor and get someone who knows what they're doing to set the timing and idle again, but just wanted to check if it all sounds ignition timing related?

 

Bob Stark

Supersprinter

[P W]

I've a strobe gun if you want to borrow it. I'm half an hour from you. Give me a call if you want to borrow it. 07717 899133.

 

Paul.

 

 

[bstark]

Cheers Paul - that's a very kind offer

 

Think it's going to go to the garage though as the car is now hibernating at SWMBO's mum's house given the sudden deterioration in the weather.

 

Bob Stark

Supersprinter

[Doug]

I fully restored my Mk2 1098cc Midget and drove it for about 6 months before having the distributor and carbs rebuilt. The change in flexibility and power delivery was huge. Unless yours has been done already, do seriously consider getting it rebuilt; and the SUs if you can stretch to it... Money well spent IMHO.

 

'Have you any idea what it's like to have the wind rushing through your hair!' (Quote:Sq Cdr the Lord Flashheart)