Front Suspension - Service/Replacement Items?

[MikeE]

I've decided to freshen up the front of my 6 year old, 7,000 mile R400 so will be stripping the front suspension to get the wishbones, anti-rollbar, springs etc powder coated.

 

So while I have it in pieces what parts should I look at checking/replacing/adjusting? Any step by step instructions would be much appreciated along with where to source the parts (if there's cheaper alternatives to CC).

 

I also have Nitron 1 way adjustable dampers which are 5 years old and have covered arounf 4500 miles (50% track), any views whether they they need to be checked over by Nitron?

 

 

TIA

 

 

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[Pendennis]

Hi Mike

 

You not selling this now? Someone I know was thinking about your car last weekend

 

Powerflex bushes in the front will transform it.

 

Dampers would always benefit from a check and re-valve, were they spec'd or off the shelf in the 1st place?

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

[MikeE]

Hi, its still for sale for the right price but if not then I'll carry on enjoying it, I had intended getting the powder coating done as well as the exhaust polished before I put it up for sale but got a bit carried away!

 

PowerFlex bushes, where do these go?

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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[Pendennis]

They replace the standard rubber CC ones

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

[MikeE]

Has no one ever stripped and overhauled there front suspension and can give me a to do list

 

So for starters I'll do this:

 

1 - strip down and get 4 wishbones and the Freestyle arb powder coated

2 - replace all bushes with PowerFlex (where best to source?)

3 - replace top wishbone ball joint?

4 - replace lower wishbone joint? (I know what it looks like but whats type is it?)

5 - replace wheel bearings?

6 - replace the steering arm ball joint?

7 - replace the steering arm itself (corroded)

 

Question is do I need to do all the above (on a 6 year old, 7,000 mile R400 with 50% track use) and is there anything else I should consider?

 

thanks!

 

 

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[mav]

find someone wiht a suitable press to remoce the existing bushes - it can be a right PITA.

 

As to the other things, then

 

1. Yes

2. OK. Not cheap though... Demon Tweeks or any one of a hundred suppliers - Check powerflex for local distributors. May be on back order still...

3. if you damage it taking it apart, yes, otherwise if no play then don't bother

4. as above

5. as above

6. If you really want to. Alternatively wire brush and spray with Matt Black paint.

7. Why not strip the rear and do that at the same time

[MikeE]

Thanks Mav

 

Thought I'd try and keep this a containable task but just doing to front now, otherwise it'll be off the road all winter again 😳

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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[Pendennis]

Powerflex, sell direct.

 

Freestyle do top balljoint conversion

 

Wheel bearings new from CC.

 

Powder coat, yes, wishbone joint - where thats?

 

Corrosion does not necessarily mean shagged

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

[Midas]

Just a word of possible warninjg. I had exactly the same ideas as yourself two years ago, and ended up with the car off the road for almost a year!!!

 

The reason was quite simple. All of the parts of the front suspension had seized themselves in place, most notably the bolt that holds the bottom damper bush in place and which goes through the bottom arm, and the top ball joints which would not budge.

 

Like so many jobs, I got to the point of no return and ended up knackering both sets of wishbones which were replaced with sourced second hand items.

 

My advice on a 7000 mile car - paint the suspension all insitu with POR15, and only take apart when absolutely necessary!!

[Pendennis]

Midas, your suspension seized themselves together because you left it too long to undertake the necessary maintenance The whole reason you would dismantle, clean, lubricate and reassemble is exactly to prevent your problem occuring

 

POR15 is good but IMO temporary solution.

 

Mike, I would anodise wishbones not powder coat

 

Oh, copperslip all suspension bolts back into place whatever you bushes you use. Powerflex require high temperature grease on all assembled bush parts.

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

 

Edited by - Pendennis on 18 Sep 2010 10:30:04

[mav]

I was under the impression anodising was for aluminium???

[Pendennis]

I am 99.9% sure you can anodise steel Mav

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

[Nigel Fox]

From Wiki, I know nothing of this process.

 

Anodizing, or anodising in British English, is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts. The process is called "anodizing" because the part to be treated forms the anode electrode of an electrical circuit. Anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than bare metal. Anodic films can also be used for a number of cosmetic effects, either with thick porous coatings that can absorb dyes or with thin transparent coatings that add interference effects to reflected light. Anodizing is also used to prevent galling of threaded components and to make dielectric films for electrolytic capacitors. Anodic films are most commonly applied to protect aluminium alloys, although processes also exist for titanium, zinc, magnesium, niobium, and tantalum. This process is not a useful treatment for iron or carbon steel because these metals exfoliate when oxidized; i.e. the iron oxide (also known as rust) flakes off, constantly exposing the underlying metal to corrosion.

 

 

 

Full time class 4 Zetec

[Fishy Dave]

See the bulk buy for rosejoint wishbone conversion, much cheaper than Freestyle, and will make camber adjustment easier.

 

David Smitheram, Wiltshire (South) Joint AR, 07718 368173.

Used to be a 1400, now 1600 supersport race car www.racelife.co.uk

[MikeE]

Ok Off-side front end now in pieces, only took 1.5 hours or so and no seized parts (but then when I built it I used liberal amounts of copperslip on all bolts).

 

There doesn't seem to be any discernible play in the top ball-joint or the lower wishbone joint and wheel bearings were still packed with grease so I assume they're still ok.

 

As I need to get the lower wishbone joint removed before powder coating I think I'll replace it anyway. Guess the ball joints can be replaced in situ at a later date if I needed to (oh and I remove the top ball-joint using the method described in the latest Low Flying, the first time I've found anything of use in that mag 😳).

 

So next questions are:

 

1 - how do I remove the rubber bushes from the wishbones? (I can't remember if they were ready assembled when I built the suspension 6 years ago?).

 

2 - the only bit I couldn't get apart was the steering arm ball-joint where it meets the hub carrier, any ideas?

 

3 - How can I get the hub carrier to look like new again?

 

 

 

 

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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[Pendennis]

Socket with ID larger than OD of rubber bush. Pass 8mm threaded rod through socket and bush with nut on bush end, socket end has large washer then a nut. Tighten nut socket end to pull bush out wishbone into socket. Once they are out, cut bush outer steel sleeve with hacksaw blade carefully. Piece of cake.

 

Remove arm from upright and separate with puller.

 

Clean all parts with white spirit and spray with aluminium paint

 

edit to add, if you are to install new rubber bushes from CC leave the steel sleeves in situ

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

 

Edited by - Pendennis on 19 Sep 2010 20:31:53

[MikeE]

Thanks, following you advice I was going to change to powerflex bushes - do they really make a noticeable difference?

 

If I read you right the method you describe will remove the rubber bush but leave the outer steel sleeve in the wishbone? You're then saying you remove it from the wishbone by first cutting it? Can't you just press it out or was it inserted into a heated wishbone when manufactured?

 

 

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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[Pendennis]

Correct, you could press it out, but I cut it with a blade, not all the way through just enough to loosen.

 

Yes they make a difference, understeer would be a thing of the past. Your probably need to increase front spring rates and stiffen front ARB.

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

[mav]

Mike, if Iu were doing the job again I'd defo got for the take your time and cut them out method. (hopefully i'll get away withpur having to cut them next year when i change over to powerflex (budget constrained me last winter)

[MikeE]

Now I confused! I could press it out using the socket and bolt method? If you remove the out sleeve from the wishbone then does the powerflex bush just sit in the wishbone or does come with it's own sleeve?

 

Mav I'm also confused by your comment (maybe it's been too heavy a weekend for me 😬) You say I should cut it out but you hope not to have to

 

Regardless of my terminal confusion thanks both for advising, keep it coming

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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[Pendennis]

Socket method pulls rubber bush out leaving outer steel sleeve in wishbone, cut outer steel sleeve as described. Powerflex bushes do not require or use outer steel sleeves

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

[mav]

Mike my bushes will have been in for just over a year if i get a chance to change them so should be able to remove with a press. The old bushes had been in for 8 years and we really struggled with a press and thats why i suggest you cut them out.

 

the powerflex ones just push into the withbone. no outer sleeve...

[MikeE]

Ok thanks again. So tonight I've failed to even pull the rubber bush out so going to get some new hacksaw blades tomorrow and cut inner sleeve, bush and outer sleeve out in one go

 

so two more questions. The lower wishbone sperical joint thing seems to be fine with no signs of wear however I guess I need to get it out before powder coating the wishbone? How do you get it out? Is there a circlip holding it in place?

 

Second question, the springs are also showing signs of gravel rash so should I get them powder coated too or will this just flake off?

 

 

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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[Pendennis]

Circlip holds it in place and it is on underside of spherical ball joint

 

Powder coat should not just flake off, but nothing lasts for ever. The beauty of it is the ease in applicating. But if it was me I'd be putting new springs on

 

I shall be pulling mine apart in about a month and a half, lubricate the bushes and I shall be anodising the bones 😶‍🌫️

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

 

Edited by - Pendennis on 20 Sep 2010 22:45:50

[MikeE]

So if a remove the circlip will I still need a press to get it out?

 

Springs are only 4 years old and 5,000 miles so should be fine other than the cosmetic element? Btw they're 275lb which were recommended by Nitron.

 

Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures

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