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S3 alternator tensioning (and exhaust bracket)


Chris71

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Sorry, couple of numptie questions, but thought it wise to check...

 

My alternator belt has started squealing badly again and there's no obvious means of tensioning it as it stands. There are only the three main bolts:

 

alternator fixings

 

Looking at the Caterham website I gather there's usually an adjustor bolt on the right hand side of this shot, but it's not present on mine. I presume it's just a missing bolt rather than a different type of adjustor or anything?

 

Presumably once I've sourced a bolt all I need to do is losen the top mounting bolt and the bottom right mounting bolt, set the belt tension (just 'twangable'?) and then do the other two up again?

 

There's no obvious sign of damage to the belt, but it has been slipping quite a bit on start up (on and off) for a while - should I replace it do you reckon?

 

Secondly, the rear mounting point for my exhaust has what looks like a DIY bracket:

 

bracket pic

 

I take it'll be a straight swap for the normal S3 Rover bracket (https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3164&osCsid=73faa81852190a57c096b8593ccf668d) - i.e. there's not a special Roadsport A exhaust or anything like that?

 

Can anyone remember how the bracket is attached to the chassis - is there a captive bolt or something or am I going to have to remove the inner skin of the door to get to it?

 

Edited by - Chris71 on 31 Aug 2010 12:22:22

 

Edited by - Chris71 on 31 Aug 2010 12:23:55

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rear barcket is standard ive just lobbed the unsed portion of mine off and going to get it replated soon

 

front looks atandard too all bolts are there and the nut on the adjuster is ok ans there is a cast section in the alternator that head on the bolt goes in.

 

hope this makes it clearer.

 

Tweeky

 

to infirmity.................... and beyond

 

Edited by - tweeky on 31 Aug 2010 12:34:00

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Loosen top bolt and bottom bolt. Use a breaker bar or large screwdriver to lever the alternator out to tension the belt. Once you've got it at the right tension with one hand, tighten the bottom bolt with one hand. When tight you can release the lever and tighten the top bolt at your leisure.

 

back here because I want to be.

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Odd thing to me about your rear exhaust mount isn't the bracket but the fact that the bobbin is under the bracket. All cars I've seen have bracket below bobbin with exhaust on top of the bobbin.

 

I had a recurrent problem of alternator belt slipping even though I have the std tensioner and adjusted it a few times to cure the squeal. What I didn't know at the time was that it was a symptom of an internal failure starting in the alternator. The rear mount for the alternator spindle was failing allowing the pulley to move gradually closer to the crank pulley. May or may not be relevant to you.

 

Steve.

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends

Puddle Pet Care

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Odd thing to me about your rear exhaust mount isn't the bracket but the fact that the bobbin is under the bracket. All cars I've seen have bracket below bobbin with exhaust on top of the bobbin.

 

That's because the bracket on there - which sticks out at right angles rather than sweeping forward - places the tailpipe too far back to clear the rear wing if it's on top. It's the previous owner's bodge basically, and one which leads to the exhaust grounded (hence why I'm looking to change it). I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any other reason for the non-standard bracket being on there.

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Loosen top bolt and bottom bolt. Use a breaker bar or large screwdriver to lever the alternator out to tension the belt. Once you've got it at the right tension with one hand, tighten the bottom bolt with one hand. When tight you can release the lever and tighten the top bolt at your leisure.

 

This is basically what I did before with the help of a friend who is knowlegable in all things Caterham. The thing is, he reckoned the fixings were different to normal and we had some trouble tensioning it, we only just managed to up the tension and that solved the problem for a few months, but now it's back... It only occurs on start up and when you have a very rapid change of engine speeds, blipping the throttle to change down, so I presumed it was just a little loose.

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front looks atandard too all bolts are there and the nut on the adjuster is ok ans there is a cast section in the alternator that head on the bolt goes in.

 

Ah, okay, I think I got the wrong end of the stick - so it is only those three bolts and you have to apply the tension manually?

 

Hmm, wonder what the problem was last time, I could swear something wasn't quite right, but I can't remember what...

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Are you sure the adjuster winder bolt isn't there? I seem to recall it's damn difficult to spot unless you know where to look, and nearly as difficult to get an 8mm spanner on it to turn.

 

It should be hiding behind the bracket. Loosen the lower bolt/nut, maybe loosen the top bolt/nut (can't remember if that simply spins)and wind the small adjuster winder bolt to deisred tension.

 

Which on mine, is a gnats knacker away from one of the chassis members. Never hits it, and the belt occasionally squeals first thing on a damp morning if it's not been run for a while - as it hadn't while we were on holiday for 2 weeks. Back to commuting and it's fine again.

 

Bri

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Click me for a picture of my K series dangling from an engine crane with the alternator in full view. You can see the head of the adjustment bolt on the end of the bracket.

 

Yep, that's where I thought it would go. I don't have one of those I'm afraid. The slot is there (obviously), but not the bolt.

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