Phil G Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I’m thinking of going down the mechanical OPG route and have read many of the threads on the subject. It all looks fairly straightforward; however, I have a few additional questions. What is the plastic capillary tube like which runs from the gauge to t-piece? Is it robust? Has anyone run all braided hose from filter to gauge t-piece? Is it possible to use a TP6 (M12x1.5) in-line t-piece directly from the old sender outlet and run a continuous braided hose to the gauge? The t-piece has a 1/8NPTF outlet for the pressure switch which could then be mounted close to the filter and use the redundant wire from the old electrical sender. Or is this just a bit too vulnerable? I cannot see the FTA1-3 or FTA8-3 t-pieces listed in the current Think catalogue. Are they still available and which one is correct when using the 1/8NPTF pressure switch? ----- Phil Why does it always rain on me even when the sun is shining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Phil, I can't answer about the adaptors you'll need as I found mine in the box of bits that "may come in useful one day". However, there is no need to go braided hose. The nylon pipe (it's not plastic) is designed for the job. Remember the oil doesn't go all the way to the gauge, there is a column of air in the pipe. Unless you bleed the pipe, which isn't recommended. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I used braided hose for the extra quid or two for mine. I cheated and made an adaptor to screw into the K-series filter mount that then took the standard fittings from the gauge. I had a nylon (a form of plastic) pipe fail on a car a long time ago - when it fails, it soon fills with oil . . . hot oil! Which was why I noticed - I suddenly got a warm leg . . . WIth that car, I still used a nylon pipe, but I shoved it inside another, thicker nylon pipe top protect it. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I chose braided too. Imagining the consequences of a nylon/plastic pipe rubbing on something and eing holed doesn't paint a pretty picture. Not sure about the adaptors though Phil. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I just wrapped the pipe in some old fuel hose in the more vulnerable places. John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Back on the road!!! 😬) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Grubby ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil G Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Thumbs up for both nylon and braid options then. I tend to agree with Bri and Steve and will probably use braid all the way. Didn’t know about the air Norman…….Interesting. Regarding the union – I’m of the opinion that the fewer joints the better and the set-up shown in FAQ appears to be slightly over-complicated using various adaptors going from M12 to BSP to UNF and back to BSP; however, on the plus side, it is tried and tested. A little chat with Think me thinks! Phil Why does it always rain on me even when the sun is shining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 For the pressure warning light, I used an ultrabrite LED rather than the monstrous warning light that you can get from think. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 For my K-series, I made a simple reducing bush - M12 male thread(I seem to recall), 1/8"BSP female(could have been NPT - it was 7yrs ago). Bit of Loctite thread sealant, screw into filter housing, screw hose fitting into it, and away we went. Kept all the existing warning light electrictrickery. I used a dual needle gauge - oil pressure and temp. Temp was capillary - needed a 3/8" BSP hole to fit the sender in the Apollo tank. The boss in the tank is JUST large enough to be tapped 3/8" - but I needed a proper machine to do it on (several hundred thousand multi-axis machining centre ;-) ) to get it dead centre (ie not where the 1/8" tapped hole is) - that too has been fine. Bri (Pained me to use Loctite - 17 yrs ago I had an interview with them as a shiny, new, enthusiastic engineering graduate for a sales engineer. Went well. Second interview - slight hiccup but realised, told them I'd stopped using the JCB, and I would be digging such a hole in a real life application. So went well - was told they had an ideal position, they'd be coming back to me . . . a month went by, rang them up - busy with takeover of another company - they'd be back to me. Another month, rang them up . . they'd be back to me . . ." Still waiting . . . I tend to specify all sorts of stuff other than Henkel products if I can . . .) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Interesting argument to bleed air out of the pipe or not. I did on the basis I figured that you can compress air and this may lead to a slower or variable response at the gauge. No harm seems to have come from doing so. Just make sure when bleeding that the engine is disabled from starting (disconnect inertia switch) so when you stop turning it over on the starter the flow of oil stops. And make sure you have a jug/bottle to catch the oil in 😬. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I did not stat the common sense remarks which apply to most pipes and wires on cars that they should be correctly secured. Mine comes of the right hand front of the block (xflow block), runs out forwards towards the rad with at least 6" clearance and then gracefully curves outwards and back to the chassis rail and is securely clipped to the chassis rail all the way back to the bulk head. Then through a rubber grommet in the bulkhead panel to the gauge. It's nowhere near heat or anything that can cut it. The car has had a nylon pipe running from the oil take off pipe for 12 years without drama. Firstly to a 3 way adaptor fitted the the chassi stud that holds the old brake pipe tee piece and the last few months all the way to the gauge. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil G Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 CageyH, Definitely not going to use the Think light. Steve - If I knew what an inertia switch looked like I’d disable it. *confused* Phil Why does it always rain on me even when the sun is shining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Phil, assuming std K series install then it will be attached to the engine side of the firewall. Has a plug with two wires on the bottom and a rubber cover on the top. Simply disconnect the plug and you disable to fuel pump. Beware that the engine may still catch for a moment as is uses fuel already pressurised in the system. Best let it do this before bleeding the oil pipe. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil G Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Another possible set-up using the t-piece below with braided hose in and out and a female tee for the switch. Even less fittings if it works and the unit can just float or be clipped to the chassis somewhere. Works out cheaper than the other set-up. End fitting with female tee. ----- Phil Why does it always rain on me even when the sun is shining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I wrapped the capillary pipe in heavy-walled plastic screenwash tube (slit from end to end). Need something around 5.5 - 6mm bore. Provides good extra protection. The fittings are 1/8" NPT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil G Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Hi Ian, IIRC they are actually 1/8 BSP - according to the catalogue anyway. They also state that 1/8 BSP and NPT will both fit the female of the species. ----- Phil Why does it always rain on me even when the sun is shining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 NPT on the gauge kits I have got ... but a different supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil G Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Never mind this thread, thread. Whats happening on the music scene? 😬 😬 😬 Phil Why does it always rain on me even when the sun is shining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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