Oil Level Brise D/S Tank

[Tin Man]

I have a Brise D/S tank fitted in front of the engine, with two breather pipes. One connected to a catch tank and the other connected to the engine cover. I fill the tank upto the baffle level, but I am loosing oil? I have a DVA K05 kit fitted with Omega forged pistons. The ECU was mapped by Emerald before the forged pistons were fitted. I have noticed some smoke under hard acceleration.

 

Any ideas 🤔

 

Thank you

 

John

[Tin Man]

I have been trawling through the archives and have come to the following conclusions.

 

1. The smoke was grey so, I assume the engine is burning oil. .

2. It may be glazed bores, as I ran the engine in with semi-synthetic oil for

500miles then changed to fully synthetic 😳

3. Bore wash? I ran the engine with a 74 deg thermostat on the road and I am

wondering if the Emerald was over fuelling because it was not up to temperature

4. I have read that Omega had problems with oil control rings, can anyone advise

when this was?

 

Would a compression test reveal glazed bores, or problems with the oil control rings?

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thank you

 

John

 

[John Howe]

Try a search and you should find the oil ring problem... think it related to the ring ends.

 

Is the smoke there all the time, or only in the early stages of warm up? Worn valve guides or the need to replace valve guide oil seals would give visual signs of oil lost, especially after the engine has sat for a while.

 

If you are running a lower rated thermostat... ask yourself why. Also, see what temperature setting, for a warm engine, the Emerald is set-up to run to.

 

Compression tests take as long to do as removing the spark plugs twice - the kit is but a few pound to buy. It will only give an indication of the compression but obviously bad compression can relate to poor ring-to-cylinder mating...

 

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

[Tin Man]

Hi John

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I only notice the smoke when I floor the throttle.

 

I was running 74 deg C stat when the engine had a wet sump, because it was getting very hot. I have now fitted an 82 deg C stat & lagged the Brise tank with insulation. The oil & water temps show a contsant 80 deg C on the gauge. Before lagging the tank the oil temp was between 40 & 60 deg C.

 

I have a Scholar block with the Pace D/S system.

 

I will check the Emerald to see what the setting is.

 

The 7 is in for a service & MOT on Monday, so I will get them to do a pressure test. I will also have a good look at the oil and the spark plugs.

 

Thanks once again

 

Regards

 

John

[Paul McKenzie]

John,

 

I have the T-shirt for this 😳

 

I would almost guarantee that the bores are glazed. IMHO 500 miles on semi-synthetic will not bed in new rings, and moving to fully synthetic after will only have further compounded the problem.

 

I did the same as you (only once), saw huge oil consumption,and when the builder opened up the engine after about 1500 miles, the bores were glazed and the head coked so badly that it looked like it had done 100,000 miles ☹️

 

Following that rebuild I ran it in on 20/50 mineral oil for 300 miles, then changed oil and same again for a further 500 or so, then on to fully synthetic. As I said you only make this mistake once 😳

 

Paul

 

 

[Tin Man]

Passed the MOT today

 

Compression test results.

 

No 1 265 psi

No 2 260 psi

No 3 275 psi

No 4 265 psi

 

Are these values ok 🤔

 

Oil looked quite black

Plugs light brown

Catch tank empty

Level in oil tank dropped 25mm (100 mile drive)

 

I assume the nrext step will be to remove the head & have a look ☹️

 

 

[Graham Perry]

They look very healthy with little variation, which is usually a good sign.