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To threadlock or not to threadlock, that is the question


Nifty

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I am fitting a "new" oil filter housing to my engine and wanted opinions on whether I need to put some threadlock on the bolts that fix it to the block.

My concern is that if I do and then need to remove it again I may struggle to get the bolts out and possibly damage the bolt head and the thread in the process. On the other hand I don't want the filter housing coming lose 😳

 

*confused* *confused*

 

Keep off the straight and narrow *tongue* 😬

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I can't recall threadlocking the bolts. My memory might be dodgy, but the only thing I can explicitly remember locking on the last rebuild was the s*dding big bolt holding the front pulley on....

 

Oh - and prop-bolts of course (although they used to be pre-locktighted).

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Ecosse™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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The only bolts you *need* to loctite are the flywheel bolts (this seals the threads to prevent oil from escaping) and any bolts inside the cambelt void, I.E. water pump, cambelt backplate, oil pump and cambelt tensioner. Bolts that have been fastened with blue loctite are not that hard to undo. The filter housing bolts should simply be torqued to the appropriate value although loctite cant do any harm it is unnecessary.

 

Oily

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It doesn't really cover it, the flywheel bolts are an unusual setup in as much as the holes are not blind as with the majority of fasteners, they are drilled right through the crank flange so that the end of the hole is swathed in pressurized oil exiting from the bearing which will wind down the bolt threads.

 

My golden rule is that flyhweel bolts notwithstanding, most engine fasteners do not require loctite, however anything inside the cambelt void where a shed bolt will cause disaster or on the induction system where a shed fastener will be ingested is loctited as a matter of course.

 

Oily

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