pabs and charlie Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Hi, I need to change the cambelt on my '00 k series and would really like to have a go at it myself. I've had a look at some threads and have scared myself a little: special tools, cams, tdc, tensioners Is there anyone within a reasonable blat of nottingham who could help me out? I can bring beers or cakes in return or both cheers, paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Not to close to you but have a look at DVA's K series pages, very clear process description and should ease your worries a bit. Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Paul, I did this for the first time a couple of weeks ago. It's no actually that hard. You will need a cam locking tool. Draper make them and they can be bought for under a fiver. You will also need a means to lock the flywheel so that you can undo the crank pulley bolt. I chose to remove the starter to better access to the flywhee ring gear. Using a piece of 1/8" steel I then fabricate (drilled a hole and bent) a tool to lock the flywheel. The hole was used to bolt it in place on one of the starter motor mounting points. It's worth changing the alternator (and dry sump if fitted) belt(s) at the same time as it has to come off to get the cam belt off. Then following the instructions in one of the K series manual (can be found online). Take plenty of time and check and double check things as you go. Hope that helps a little. If yuo do decide to take it to DVA he will at least let you assist so that you understand how to do it next time. Mind you he may suggest the purchase of some verniers to imrpove the cam timing too 😬 Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Actually - you don't NEED the cam locking tool - it simply makes it easier. I did mine at the weekend (plus a cam change, added verniers, TBs and a new ECU) without one. And to undo the crankshaft bolt, simply shove it in top gear, and get someone to lean on the brakes while you undo / do it up. Easy. (Although, having the GF asking "which one is the brake pedal?" was slightly worrying as she has held a driving licence for 7 yrs and uses a car every day . . . 😳 Gates do just the kit you need - cambelt and OE spec tensioner. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Did you get it running yet then Bri? Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Indeed . . . very sweetly, with instant pickup from idle when blipped - sounds "barking"! 😬 Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 ....or ROUGH Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 And if you need a K series manual there is one on the home page of my site *arrowdown* *arrowdown* *arrowdown* It's only taken four and a half years - I have started my website at last! Early days yet . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 You will need the Gods to be looking kindly upon you, if you are attempting to undo the crank pulley bolt, simply by locking the wheels on the brakes -- It is a 120 ft/lb torque If you check carefully, you should be able to insert a punch/screw driver into small openings that exist either side of the flywheel and lock the crank by jamming the starter ring. It saves the effort of removing the starter. If you have a lightweight flywheel... be careful not to lock onto the "teeth" that the crank sensor counts, as they are not substancial enough! JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Easily undone - even with Debs tiny feet not quite reaching the pedals properly. If your brakes can't hold that torque when run down through top gear in the gbox, then your brakes should be next on the list of things to do . . . 😬. I think it's the suggested technique in the Haynes Rover manual too. Now, handbrake alone . . . I think you'll be chasing the car around the garage . . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I'd be more worried about your clutch taking that sort of loading, also remember that the diff is not 1:1 so the torque loading on the brakes is considerably more. If the crank bolt is correctly torqued (and many of them are not), then you would do better to lock the flywheel. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabs and charlie Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 thanks for your suggestions - i think what you are all saying is to get on with it and give it a go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Worry ye not - it works - takes less time on an assembled car and does no damage 😬 Even doing it back up with a calibrated torque wrench is fine. If you think about it - Caterham claim 122 lb ft torque (note - not a spring rate . .. as lb/ft is . . ) from the 1.8K. I was told several years ago when I used to do a lot more work within the automotive industry, typical FoS for clutches was 1.3 - accounts for a bit of wear and tear, production tolerances, crap gearchanges, Debs reversing etc etc - so clutch should be good for around 158 lb ft - nicely in excess of the 120 required to do it up. As for brakes - you do the rear hub nuts up to 200 lb ft relying on the brakes to hold it still - and that's only held by one brake caliper. So assuming 1:1 in top, you get 120 lb ft coming through the box into the diff - ratio of 3.89 - so torque at the diff output is 466 lb ft, fed to TWO back brakes - assuming all things being equal, they do half the work each, resisting 233 lb ft torque each - not that far above the hub nut torque and easily do-able. Plus in this case you'll have the extra effort of the front brakes assisting in stopping the car being shoved acorss the floor. Leave it in first and you'll be having fun though . . . Also stops you putting lots of force through the engine mounts and noticing they are knackered - thus leading to more expense . . I'm a great believer in using the easiest, cheapest, safest, and quickest method to do things (I did miss my lump hammer when the handle failed after only 50 odd years service ) - leaves me more time to do other more enjoyable things - like driving it! However, for a first timer - take your time, read a Haynes manual for a Rover with a K-series in (borrow from Library maybe) and it's easy peasy. Possibly need a little bit of "feel" for belt tension, but that's all. However, nicknames from work might put you off - "dangerous Brian, Scrap-iron Brian" ( a few design cock-ups a lonnnng time ago) and "prof" when they found out about the BEng . . . 😬 Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 😬 Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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