Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Duratec Clutch Mechanism


AdamQ

Recommended Posts

Just wondered if anybody (but mainly the Duratec chaps) has, in the course of their research, stumbled across a cable-operated clutch for the Duratec?

 

In their FAQ on the Duratec, Minister imply that it's a possibility, but when I spoke to them they said that they'd never actually built/produced one (with good reason, somebody will no doubt suggest *wink*).

 

Cheers,

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adam

 

To my knowledge there isn't one available at the moment but I am sort of working on one with a friend for a one make series. Not sure when it will be ready.

 

There is nothing really wrong with the hydraulic one. Works very well in fact.

 

Why do you want to have a cable rather then the hydraulic? Is it for a Seven?

 

Ammo

Raceco.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AMMO,

 

Thanks for the reply. Good to know that I'm not the only one who's thought about it.

 

In answer to your questions, yes, it is for a Seven; as for the reasons why, it's largely just an innate (and perhaps irrational) preference for the simplicity of the cable over the hydraulic arrangement. Also, whenever I try to bleed something I end up with clutch fluid everywhere (especially on the paint) except where I want it (the air stays there) - slightly tongue in cheek, but you know what I mean. Also, and I might well be wrong here, it appears from the pictures I've seen, that replacing a hydraulic clutch actuator is an engine-out job whereas, and I might also be wrong here, replacing a cable is a relatively straightforward affair that can be done at the side of the road if necessary. And there's the weight saving of course *wink*.

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have just spoken to my friend who has now got the prototype working in a car. We are going to cast a few so maybe available in a month or so.

 

If a cable bellhousing had been available when i converted my car I would have used it as my early car was originally cable operated and was a real pain to covert to hydraulic. Later cars have provision for a master cylinder even if they are cable operated. Mine didn't.

 

So watch this space or give me a call in a few weeks.

 

Ammo

Raceco.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ammo,

 

We are going to cast a few

 

Is this bellhousings? If so, will they be the shorter/narrower (depends where you're standing!) ones that allow the engine to be mounted 18 mm further back and use the shorter gearbox shaft?

 

So watch this space or give me a call in a few weeks.

 

Will do. Thanks for the help.

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why reinvent the wheel...

 

Adam, as we have already discussed, if it causes no poroblem with it normal location in the Mondeo, why should your left foot be so problamatic...

 

So you need to take the engine out to replace the slave, but you have the same situation with CRB and you are not considering a change of design here - or are you.

 

What time are you coming over tomorrow to play with your bits?

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always had hydraulic clutches on my 7's and neither of them have given any bother in a combined 20,000 miles. The duratec setup is dead easy to bleed and you can pretty much forget it after that.

 

The number of times on tour we have had to pull over while one of the k series brigade changes there snapped clutch cable would tend to suggest to me that the hydraulic version is by far the more reliable in a 7.

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John,

Why reinvent the wheel...

I'm not, I'm just reverting to the wheel that was around before somebody reinvented the hydraulic version of it!

 

As for the CRB point (and I'm not considering a redsign there!), if you've got two components each with specific probabilities that they'll go wrong at some point, then the combined probability that one or other of them will go wrong at some point is greater (though I will concede that if it was necessary to replace one, then you'd probably replace the other at the same time).

 

If it suits, I'll be over as soon after 9.00 as I can make it as, weather-permitting, I'm playing golf at 2.00 [fortifies himself against the next barrage of abuse ...].

 

Simon,

Thanks for the information - all valuable. As I say, this is two parts an innate (but by no means stubbornly fixed) preference for a cable, two parts a genuine interest in the possibility, and one part for JH's amusement.

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had both a Crossflow and a Zetec with cable clutch and never had any problems using a Ford clutch cable.

 

Maybe Rover clutch cables are sh1te. Wouldn't surprise me!

 

As I said before if you are converting a cable operated car like a Crossflow to Duratec it is easier to keep it cable operated. If you are already hydraulic keep it hydraulic. What could be simpler?

 

When I went hydraulic I had to drill holes for the master cylinder and alter the clutch pedal to operate said cylinder. Would have preferred to save time and keep the cable had a suitable bellhousing been available.

 

The Duratec bellhousing that will be for sale soon can run either cable or hydraulic as it is also drilled for a slave cylinder.

 

Don't honestly believe one system is better than the other. They both do the same job in a different way. You get to choose.

 

Ammo

Raceco.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...