Mole Posted May 19, 2002 Share Posted May 19, 2002 The next step in the build of my 1.8 K Roadsport SV is the installation of the engine & gearbox. According to the build manual it is "impossible" to fit the standard exhaust manifold if the left hand engine mount is in place. Is this really true because I can't see anything obvious that would stop the manifold being fitted after the engine mount and it looks as though it would be much easier to lift the engine safely if it were possible to fit the exhaust manifold once the engine is installed in the chassis? If the build manual is correct this would mean that if I wanted to change the manifold some time in the future, this would be an engine-out job (which I find hard to believe). Does the additional dimensions of the SV chassis make any difference? The Mole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Can't comment on SV chassis but as far a standard cooking unit is concerned the engine mounting brackets should not be a problem, though you might find you need to fit the manifold BEFORE bolting the engine to it mounts - this will allow you some degree of movement. I would strongly advise you to reduce length of exhaust studs i.e. remove any surplus thread. With out this course of action you will struggle to remove the branch manifold (if you ever want to change to a 4-2-1 system) without lifting the head. JH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted May 20, 2002 Author Share Posted May 20, 2002 Thanks. You seem to be confirming what the build manual says - it sounds as though the problem is the clearance between the studs and the chassis diagonals. I was hoping that it would be possible to fit the manifold after the engine was bolted in position, this way I could lift the engine with the sling securely towards the centre. If the manifold needs to be attached with the lump still suspended then the sling needs to be at the extreme ends of the block (to keep well clear of where the exh. manifold is going to fit) which seems a) less secure and b) risks damaging other bits (e.g. the alternator, starter motor, plenum etc.). I am assuming that there are no lifting points on the engine (I can't see anything obvious) and that it has to be lifted with a sling that passes underneath the whole thing - is this correct? Or am I just missing something obvious - has everyone else done this without a problem? The point about reducing the length of the studs is very useful advice. The Mole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Why not put your slings through the gaps in the manifold? That what I do with the throttle bodies... but you must remember, I am a farmer, so I don't use a sling but lots of baling string, which allow me the spread the load. JH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike V Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 When I did this, (same spec as yours), I put one strap through the manifold and the other around the bellhousing. All seemed to work fine to me. You may just need a spare pairs of hands to guide the gearbox through the tunnel. I've sent you a photo of how I did this to your email. X77CAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted May 20, 2002 Area Representative Share Posted May 20, 2002 I think the assembly guide should read "Right hand side" engine mount not "left hand side". I slung my engine and 'box assembly with blue polyprop rope from B&Q. It's rated at 238Kg which is plenty. I adjusted the angle of the assembly by twisting a bit of wood to tension the rear sling. I drove the hoist and my 12year old son guided the assembly into place. With the RHS engine mount removed there is plenty of room to fit the manifold without shortening the studs, however, shortening the studs may make life easier at a later date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted May 21, 2002 Author Share Posted May 21, 2002 Thanks all - I did some experimenting last night so I think I should be OK now (as far as lifting the lump is concerned!). I've got some webbing straps rated at 1000kg so now I can lift the whole car! Never thought that the build manual might mean the right-hand mount, I've been mislead by the manual in so many other places that I should have spotted this. I'm getting tired of ringing tech support line to be told the manual isn't (quite)right, but from reading the archives it looks as though this is part of the Caterham experience that all self-builders go through. You guys who buy complete cars just don't know what you're missing ..... Mike - I don't seem to have got your e-mail, could you re-send, or for the benefit of others it may be worth posting the picture here? The Mole Edited by - Mole on 21 May 2002 08:49:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Mike, I think have must have mis-directed your photo as I got an e-mail from you. I'll assume you will mail again direct to Mole. JH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike V Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Mole, you should have mail. I obviously sent it over to John, sorry mate. As for posting the photo on the site, I'd love to but haven't figured out how. It's not as if I know about computers and stuff. Doh! I'm a computer engineer. Ah well, no-one said I was any good at it(!?) X77CAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 >> it sounds as though the problem is the clearance between the studs and the chassis diagonals. << Are the diagonals not removable on the SV? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 If you get the engine/gearbox halfway into the car then you should be able to fit the engine mounts and exhaust manifold below the chassis diagonals before lowering it into it's final position. It is a good idea to leave the engine mounting brackets very loose until you have successfully engaged the mounting points on the chassis, they will not necessarily line up perfectly. Several SV builders, myself included, have had to modify the gearbox mount in order to allow the engine mounts to line up - it is worth doing a dry run to check the alignment before adding the complication of the exhaust manifold. Pictures of my build, including the misaligned engine mounts are here Pictures of engine/gearbox on the crane using webbing straps - here Miraz Edited by - Miraz on 21 May 2002 11:41:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Mike - The diagonals on an SV chassis are not removable....but the build manual hasn't been updated and still suggests removing them. Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted May 21, 2002 Area Representative Share Posted May 21, 2002 The diagonals on my Feb 2002 standard chassis are not removable either. You just get used to the assembly guide being wrong! It's all part of the fun of self assembly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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