Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

What oil for a 320D?


CageyH

Recommended Posts

I attended a tech seminar on oil a while ago. The people from Castrol said that for the modern turbo diesel engines, especially those from BMW and VW you should stay with the recommended oil spec. It is not only the viscocity but also the additives that makes the difference so be careful to look for the right BMW specification.

 

Edited by - Jorgen on 26 Dec 2007 15:38:53

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assumed 5w-40 as that is what bro puts in his 320D (it's supplied by the dealer) but according to Opie Oils you can use.........

 

1. Castrol Edge Sport for modern engines 0w-40 - £38 (per 4L)

2. Fuchs Titan GT1 zinc free synthetic BMW LL04 5w-30 - £37

3. Motul 8100 X-clean 5w-40 - £28

4. Motul BMW Specific LL-04 5w-40 - £27

5. Amsoil Synthetic Oil (AFL) 5w-40 - £44

6. Castrol Edge for modern engines 5w-30 - £43

7. Castrol Edge TD for modern performance diesel engines 0w-30 - £43

8. Castrol Edge TD 5w-40 for advanced diesel engines - £34

 

Only the Fuchs Titan GT1 and Motul BMW specific LL04 are specifically for LL04 BMW engines.

Best to use the correct oil, even for top-ups.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A bit of a hijack here, but on the topic of oils for Beemers, I was horrified to be charged over £90 by the main dealer for oil in my 3.0D X5 recently, and vowed to supply my own from hereon in, can anyone give me a steer on what oil meets BMW's spec for this engine please?

 

Paul J.

Loud pipes save lives, but quiet ones save your hearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob,

 

I was going to do mine every 9,000 Km (ish).

20,000 Km is way too much for my liking.

Oil is relatively cheap compared to a new turbo!

 

I will see what I can find tomorrow in the way of 0W30.

I'll pop into BMW for a new filter as well.

 

Only dead fish go with the flow....!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The oil you are paying a lot for is specially designed for a long service interval, it is burnt off [easy way of explaining it] taking away deposits that would normally end up in the filter and sticking to your engine parts increasing the need for an oil change.

Millions of pounds worth of research goes into this and even then the manufactures suggest a safe time to change the oil rather than leaving it to the last minute. By topping up you are adding fresh oil anyway. If your car has a thirty thousand mile service interval stick to it, the plugs and filters are designed to last the same time, the idea being to just have one service rather than three in a given period, simple.

 

Helping and encouraging others rather than putting them down.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must say that mine sounded like tthe proverbial bag o' nails pre oil change and with new oil it's much happier. Indeed the vanos seems to work on new oil but not on old. i nolnw run with 5W 40 rather than the -30 I suspect the dealer puts in and the car's much happier.

Must say i am not a great believer in LL oils

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil,

 

I understood that the long drain oils had an additive that kept the carbon deposits in suspension and prevented them settling out as sludge?

 

The cynic in me thinks that the car manufactures do not want there car engines to last too long and have a vested interest in you replacing your car also they want to show that there cars have low running costs.

 

I do a lot of short journeys so do not fill with long drain oil but prefer to change it every 5000 miles.

 

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All this oil change interval stuff provokes lots of thoughts and opinions.

 

My personal thoughts - the quality of the oil and how you treat your engine at start-up (and shut-down if a turbo) is more important than the oil change interval. I have a 99 328i that I've had from new. It now has 126K miles with the oil changed every ~15K miles. I've sent oil samples off to a lab for analysis after the last two changes and both times its come back with no significant amount of wear metals or contaminants present and plenty of lubrication qualities remaining. I keep the engine load down (no more than about one third throttle and 3K rpms) until 10 minutes after the coolant's up to temp. After that it sees the redline as required to maintain the driver's desired rate of forward progress. *biggrin*

 

I cringe when I hear someone harshly blip the throttle on a cold engine or tear out of the pub car park redlining the engine in 2 or 3 gears after a club meet.

 

So, just one person's opinion.

 

Edited by - sopris on 30 Dec 2007 11:09:47

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...