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Bilstein Rear Dampers


colincagain

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Hmmm ... just received new rear dampers for my 92 de dion and thought they looked different to the current set ... no threaded body and spring platform. I was finally convinced that in fact I needed to remove a threaded collar/platform from my old units and put them on the new ones. Has anyone done this? The advice from Caterham was to stick the damper shaft in the vice and unscrew/remove the top mounting eye then slide the collar off the top. Seems to me that this would require masive force to stop the shaft turning (damper been on car a long time) and is not a great way to treat the surface of the shaft. Even if I could get this undone, where does the circlip (with no holes) underneath the platform come into this? I assume this is be bread and butter to loads of folks .. . some advice/experience to the misguided would be appreciated before I screw it up. Thanks

Colin

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Threaded bits are known as adjustable platforms and they can be complete and utter barstewards to get off. They are bound to be gacked on.

 

Caterham's advice is what I do, almost.

 

I use a new set of stilsons to hold the damper rod - dunno if this is advisable or not, but it works. It's the only way I can think of to stop the damper rod rotating in order to get the eye off. Grip the top of the damper rod which does not go past the damper seals so if the stilsons do slip, it doesn't matter too much. This is the easy bit.

 

Getting the threaded bit of the platforms off the dampers is far harder . . . .

This is what I'd do....

1. Mount damper bottom eye in a BIG vice.

2. Spray dismantling lube, something like Plus Gas (better than WD40 for this) down the back of the threaded bit.

3. Use a large adjustable wrench to try and rotate the threaded bit that the spring platforms spin on. This will probably be a sod, but keep working on it with Plus Gas and the wrench.

4. Once the threaded bit is moving and free, slide it off the top of the damper and you will see the circlip which holds the threaded bit in place.

 

This may not work though, especially if your dampers are old and gacked up.

In this case, you may want to try heat on the ally threaded bit.

This may also not work . . .. in which case try lots of heat.

 

On a 21 I worked on, we used 2 blow torches and a 4 foot bar on the wrench, and the threaded bit would still not move.

Yes, heat may damage the old dampers, but who cares, you have new dampers anyway.

If none of this works, buy new adjustable platforms - sometimes the buglers just won't come off.

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Best way to stop the shaft turning is to get someone to drill a hole (that is the same diameter as the shaft itself) through about 50mm of hex aluminium bar using a lathe (find a friendly machine shop).

Once done they need to cut this in two longways and you have a little clamp device. You can then apply all the pressure your stilsons or whatever cana muster and not damage the shaft.

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  • Area Representative

Paul has the right idea. Use a vice with a couple of bits of aluminium over the jaws to protect the shocker. The aluminium is much softer than the shocker rod and therefore won't damage it.

LADS Top Tip:-

Place the shock absorber rod horizontally in the vice jaws in order to exert pressure over as much of the rod as possible. This will help stop it turning. *thumbup*

 

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

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