Engine Load Leveller Problems

[rpaulgreaves]

Just done a trial lifting of my complete 'K' series engine and gearbox prior to installation in the car for the first time. I'm using a Machine Mart Load Leveller as seems to be recommended by many with the two chains at the front and the two at the back each fastened to the standard lifting eyes using a shackle. It all worked well whilst the engine was level, but when trying to tip it to the recommended 30-40 degrees gearbox end down, the front chains pulled on the front lifting eye at an increasing angle. Eventually the lifting eye bent in-plane quite severely and I abandoned the trial for fear of it breaking. It all seems to be caused by the fact that the load leveller is too long.

 

As lots of people have reported success with the load leveller, I feel I must be doing something wrong. Did anyone else have a similar problem and if so how did you fix it?

 

Paul G ☹️

[Foxy Smith]

Can't give you a specific answer as I've only ever been peripherally involved with Kseries engines but my experience with load levelers seems to be to get them as close to the load as possible i.e. try not to have daylight between the engine and the load leveller. Does this make sense??

[Grubbster]

I have never used a load leveller - the engine is easy enough to manage slung on rope, particularly if there are 2 or 3 people working together to fit it. I have installed 5 so far. You just need to pull the gearbox down really far at fist to get the tail into the tunnel then reduce the angle graually as you lower the engine, sliding it back into the tunnel. Instead of the ally lifting eye (I lost it) - I used one of those flat bicycle spanners last time (I had one lying around already) - much stronger.

[Colin Mill]

I used the same leveller to fit my engine and I seem to recall using some 12mm rope as slings rather than relying on the lifting eyes. I did spend some time getting the engine tilted over to the correct angle. if its too upright I seem to recall that it fouls on the LH side of the opening near the front.

 

Once you get it at the right angle the whole job is a dream - I put mine in solo. I kept the hoist in the same spot and moved the car forward as the assembly went in. That way I had no worry about setting off a swing of the assembly that could have hit the car.

 

Colin

[rpaulgreaves]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

 

Colin - Like your idea of using the slings in conjunction with the load leveller, but could I ask where underneath the engine you position them? The bottom of the engine is pretty flat so what is to stop the slings slipping off when it's tipped up at 40 degrees ready for installation?

 

Cheers

 

Paul G

[Colin Mill]

Hi Paul

 

I had a horrid feeling you were going to ask that 😬. I have been racking my brain (cell) to remember. I think the rear strop went around the bell housing up against the back of the sump. I think the front one threaded up between the alternator and the block but if I recall right it was the alternator which despite being swung in towards the block caused the most difficulty getting the engine lowered into the bay. I think I would remove it to do the job if I were doing it again.

 

The tail down attitude needed to get the box into the tunnel seemed quite steep - more than I had expected from eyeing the job up with the assembly on the ground.

 

Oh yes, and I protected the more obvious parts of the engine bay with layers of masking tape and bubble wrap to make sure I did not mark the powder coat with anything.

 

Edited by - Colin Mill on 7 Aug 2007 00:00:44

[rpaulgreaves]

Hi Colin - Thanks for the update. Some experimentation this weekend I think!

 

Cheers

 

Paul