wobbly steering

[ptpt]

BlatChaps!

 

Your collective wisdom is required to help diagnose a steering problem I'm suffering. Annoyingly, I seem to be getting some play in the steering column. I've got a quick release system and it appears the movement is between the splined boss and the main tube. If I remove the wheel, I can wiggle the splined end quite easily with my fingers, with about 1mm of movement each way. It's even more pronounced when driving an doesn't inspire confidence on rough surfaces! secondary convern is that this wobble may get picked up in the M.O.T due late next month. Incidentally, does anyone know off-hand how MOT testers quantify dangerous 'wobble'?!

 

I've read in the archives that greasing the splines helps but in this case, its not the QR mechanism but the splined boss itself. I think I need to separate the splined boss from the outer tube but it doesn't look obvious how I can do this and I don't want to start randomly undoing bolts, because I've heard they can be a right pain to reassemble.

 

Any advice gratefully received

 

Cheers

Phillip

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[TomB]

It might be the plastic sleeve around the upper steering column bush. Mine fell out & the steering column wobbled. A replacement bush i about £3 but a bugger to fit. I ended up removing the plastic sleeve from the new bush & carefully inserting it in the old bush/ steering column. Worked so far.

[ptpt]

Is it easy to get access to this plastic sleeve? What do I have to undo?

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[Peter Carmichael]

I think this sounds distinctly "not normal" and needs the upper column replacing. Never heard of one of these having any wobble at all. Safety-related and all that means I'd advise replacement before driving...

[Russell M]

Had a similar problem with "Wobbly Steering" on a previous car & found that the movement has to be fairly extreme to fail an MOT.

 

You may find the info. you need here.

 

Hoping my first clicky link works!

[Jason Plato]

If I remove the wheel, I can wiggle the splined end quite easily with my fingers

 

if the movement is rotational and not side to side then its the steering colum joint that is loose - DO NOT DRIVE ANTMORE TILL ITS FIXED !!!

 

take the bonnet off and you will see the bit on the collum with 2 x 1/2" bolts and a grub screw that bolts the 2 sections of the steering collum together - this is the bit that is wobbling back and forth .

 

Take the clamp bit off and remove the grub screw and grind the end flat and then reassemble .

 

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia Area Rep

 

Edited by - Dave Jackson on 26 Jun 2007 17:17:38

[ptpt]

Thanks Dave - Yes, the movement is rotaional . 😳 I recall now that the previous owner told me to routinely check this area for play. I'll have a go at it tonight but needless to say I won't be driving it again until it's sorted!

 

 

 

 

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[ptpt]

Cheers Russell - the link works fine. Useful site that

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[DaveMorris]

Phillip,

when you take the clamp off, as Dave suggests, you may see indentations/markings in the flat which is machined into the bottom section of the column. This is caused by the sharp(ish) end of the grubscrew. Try if possible to get rid of some of this marking.

 

Also make sure that you check the build manual and tighten the clamp up in the correct order.

 

Whilst you're looking at the coupling - check the machined section in the upper column (the cut out section of the tubing into which the clamp fits). Mine cracked around the radius at the top of the machined section. It's unlikely that this is causing your problem, but whilst you're working in the area it's worth a quick gander.

 

Dave.

 

X-flow(er) power now resting. Trying Vx for a change.

[ELV15]

DaveMorris, actually I have a friend who lost his steering while on the track because the steering column cracked all the way through! My understanding is that the column has been changed to have a radius leading to the flat, whereas before it was a sharp edge. His cracked between the sharp edge and the flat. So, yes, please check your column for cracks and to see if it has a radius or not. If not, I would think about replacing the upper column.

 

ELV15 - Tom in California -

200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

[JimB]

It sounds like the problem I had when I fitted a Q/R upper column and had some rotational play after tightening everything up. The problem was that the flats on the cutout in the outer column were slightly proud of the flat on the inner column.

 

First job was to file down the flats on the outer column a bit. I then found that tightening up the two-part block thing round the column did not properly grip both parts of the column, and had to skim a tiny bit off the mating faces of the block bits, so everything could be properly sweated up (and the grub screw and lock nut tightened).

 

There you are - clear as anything!

 

Jim

[ptpt]

I've just taken the whole thing apart and I think I understand what the problem is and how to rectify it all but the grub srew is proving to be a right pain in the 🙆🏻! None of my allen keys or socket fittings will fit - it seems to be a 5.5mm It looks like someone previosuly has gouged it out. I'm thinking of soaking it in WD40 overnight and then having a go at the exposed part of the grubscrew with some mole grips - good or bad idea???

 

It looks like I have to file down the mating faces of the two part clamp as one is quite rough with minor corrosion. I wonder if this part is available from CC - anyone?

 

Glad I don't need the car over the weekend or I'd be even more miffed

 

Cheers - Phillip

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[Stuart Faulds]

ptpt - the grub screw is imperial, however off the top of my head I can't remember what it is. All the parts of the clamp are available separately from Caterham.

 

Jim - the *only* part of the clamp that should touch the flat in the lower column is the grub screw - the whole purpose of this joint is to allow the columns to slide into each other in the event of the rack moving backwards. Sounds like you have engineered this facility out...

[ptpt]

Thanks Stuart - I'll try and find one to fit tomorrow. I just hope it turns as it looks badly seized. Oh well, if it's terminal, I'll just buy some new yokes from CC.

 

Cheers

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[DaveMorris]

Jim,

I agree with Stuart F on this - it is the "collapsing" part of the column and I think is meant to merely "nip" teh inner flat and not clamp it solidly. Stops the 260momo being punched thru your chest.

 

ELV15,

there were potentially some of the older type design that "got through the net" at some later stage. It is something that I would, NOW, check on regularly anyway - and would advise others to do the same (especially on a dry sumped x-flow where the rack normally has to be rotated to provide clearance)

 

Dave.

 

X-flow(er) power now resting. Trying Vx for a change.

[Jason Plato]

dont be miffed

 

ist all part of the kit car fun

 

but do make sure its repaired properly .

 

It sounds like the grub screw is buggared now then ???

 

so if you do get it out - you will have to get a replacement one ....... I would be surprised if Caterham sold this on its own ?. And its imperial so getting one loaclly will probably be difficult . I wouild suggest you buy another complete clamp and fittings just to be safe

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia Area Rep

[Stuart Faulds]

Caterham sell all the parts seperately - including the grub screw.

[Peter Carmichael]

File the nose of the new grub screw flat. This spreads the twisting load better on the lower teering column and doesn't dig in when doing the sliding bit. Should be in the build manual.

[TomGaval]

Unbelieveable how precognicent BlatChat is. Doing routine tech of my car prior to this weekend's sprint competition, and oops, steering has a slight looseness.

 

Didn't even need to post, the answer is always there!

 

I don't care what the anyone says on ChitChat, Tech Talk is the Absolute BEST!!

 

Job's done. Thanks guys! Tom

[ptpt]

A quick update....and then a request for more help!

 

As advised, I stripped the steering column joint apart, inspected it for any cracks or distortion (it's fine). I then filed away all the superficial surface corrosion on the clamp faces and managed to work the seized grubscrew out of the upper bracket. I then reassembled it and did my best to make ensure the fit between the two part of the column was a tight as possible. However the wobble persists and I now think it has to a problem with the plastic bushing in the upper column (as first mentioned by TomB). If I grab hold of the column with my right hand and the steering wheel with my left, the movement is more lateral than vertical, but still pronounced (maybe 2mm each way). Does this indicate that a bushing has fallen out or slipped slightly? My problem now, is how do I access it the bushing - someone mentioned they are a swine to fit! I couldn't see much last night but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for.

 

Cheers guys

 

Phillip

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here

[DaveMorris]

Phil,

 

link here to an earlier thread on this topic.

 

Best way of removing the top column I've found is using a ratchet strap around the roll bar. Sitting in the drivers seat yanking repeatedly on the steering wheel seems a bit dangerous to me - a number of people has smacked themselves in the face with the steering wheel doing it this way.

 

Dave.

[Molecular--Bob]

That was my thread that was linked above.

 

I went with the ratchet strap for removal. Once you have the column out have a good look at the regions where column sits in the bearings. Mine had got grit in them and were so scored that when i put my first set of bearings in the damage on the column destroyed the new bearings as i reinserted the column. This is not a job you want to do twice.

 

Top tip is heat the bearings for 5mins in boiling water to aid squashing them in, and to lube the outer of the bearings.

 

If you have a detachable wheel column you can fit the new bearing with it in place. If you have a steering lock then you will have to fit the column and then place the bearing over this and drive it home, i used the outer of the old bearing and a matching impact socket as a drift to avoid hitting the thread of the column by mistake. I used a ptfe lube desidned for robotic linear bearings on the bushes and it seems to work well.

 

I would avoid dong the lower one unless you have to, its a proper pain in the 🙆🏻.

 

Hope this helps

 

Ian

 

 

 

[JimB]

Dave / Stuart

 

I am trying to get my brain how the whole slidy thing is supposed to work:

 

Surely if the only bit supposed to come into contact with the flat on the inner column is the grub screw, the need for a cutout in the outer column, which lines up with the flat, would be irrelevant . All you would need would be a hole for the grubscrew. When I only had the grubscrew touching the flat, I still had noticeable rotational movement between the two parts.

 

Jim

[ptpt]

Update!

 

Finally got around to putting the new upper bush in this afternoon. It wasn't nearly as hard as I expected and I thankfully didn't smack myself in the face when removing the steering colomn

 

Took her out for a test blat and the difference is incredible. So much smoother and confidence inspiring.

 

Thanks chaps for the simple step-by-step instructions

 

 

 

White 1400 SS, 6speed + LSD here