Reseating K Series Liners

[viperbl]

As some of you know, when I took my head off last month because of the coolant issue I found that the liners in the 1.8K series has dropped, some to 0.

 

I have put a new gasket on, and it’s running for now, but obviously it will fail again.

 

I have been told that these liners if put in without any sealant (not sure of the substance used at the bottom to hold it in place?) will actually be at 0, i.e. flush with the block and that they are only 4/5thou proud because of the sealant.

 

If this is the case, surly as long as the block and head are straight I can just remove the liners and re seat them with new sealant to 4/5 thou proud?

 

Cheers

Rich

 

[prs]

I always thought the liners should stand 4-5thou proud dry. You then apply a 2mm bead of blue Hylomar to the step and insert the liner.

Phil S7SVN

[oilyhands]

Viperbl,

 

That is incorrect, the sealant is effectively ejected from the liner land/liner bottom and forms a seal *around* the join rather than in it. If your liners are level with the block you are doomed to gasket failure.

 

oily

[viperbl]

Thanks guys,

 

This makes more sense to me rather that what I posted above ...

 

So how does this work then, do I get longer liners, or take a bit of the top of the block and use my exising liners?

[Bozz]

AFAIK its linish the block to restore the liner heights.

 

I know Tony Whitley did this last year.

 

Bozz

 

McLaren Orange and Black 1.6SS 6 Speed here

 

Edited by - Bozz on 22 Mar 2007 21:26:53

[Peter T]

Skim block to achieve liner height.

 

R500 260 BHP Mango Madness

[Tony Whitley]

I did it (under DVA's instructions) with wet and dry, a sharpening stone to use as a block, a straight edge, feelers, a lot of measuring and a piece of oiled plate glass to check flatness. I was deeply sceptical of my ability to do the work but I've since done about 6,000 miles including a trip round Europe in pretty testing conditions with no sign of trouble

 

I did it with the block in situ, taking care to block off all the oilways, but by the time I'd refitted the crank from underneath I reckon it would have been almost as easy to take the engine out. Mark the liners to make sure they go back in the same position, measure how much you need to take off, remove the liners, linish, refit the liners (dry, carefully) measure, repeat. Finally check for high spots with the plate glass. It took a couple of hours as I recall.

[viperbl]

Many thanks for the post Tony...

 

Its possible to linish the block with some wet and dry????

 

Edited by - viperbl on 22 Mar 2007 20:35:29

[Peter T]

Trying to linish 4-5 thou with wet and dry might take some time and give you severe backache! ☹️

It would be better to remove the engine and have it done via machining to correct the proble, much safer that damaging your block !!

 

R500 260 BHP Mango Madness

[Mick Day]

I did it with the block in situ, taking care to block off all the oilways, but by the time I'd refitted the crank from underneath

Tony

How does one replace the flywheel/clutch with the block in situ? Or does one drop the crank & flywheel as one unit?

Mick

 

Edited by - Mick Day on 23 Mar 2007 12:34:18

[viperbl]

Tony,

 

How much did you have to linish? I hear what Peter is saying, since one side of mine is 0 proud, only up 2 thou proud at the other end, so, thats a lot of linishing to be done

 

I got a quote from a local company, think it was 140 quid if I remember correctly to skim and refit if I gave them the block, liners and head.

[oilyhands]

It usually takes around an hour to linish a block from 0 protrusion to 4 thou.

 

oily

[Tony Whitley]

Make that "by the time I'd refitted the con rods to the crank from underneath" By the time I'd stripped the engine to the point that I could linish it there was little but the block.

 

As best I remember mine varied between 0 and less than 2 thou proud at the start. I was dealing with a 40,000 mile ex-Elise engine, not one of Minister's finest - that might affect your decision!