philwaters Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Any good recommends for nice looking/feeling switches for replacing the dashboard toggles & switchgear? Open to ideas as I quite like the idea of small rocker switches (like at the bottom of here but also the stainless toggles (RIF style). I also like here but they are a little pricy, and when you have a number, they may look a little garish - any thoughts? I'd also like to have If I replace everything with toggles, of suitable on/off/on types, am I going to run into problems having a suitable lamp indication. I am thinking of the brake test - my thought was to just have LED's located above the switches to indicate the state of play. On that subject - what do I legally need to have? I also like to have two LED's for the indicators - Left & Right located either side of the centre of the wheel. Anyone know if that is possible? Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Phil, RiF's are good. have a look around my upgrade pages. I have s/s switches, both toggle and push on/off and LED lamps. (Need a bulb on alternator - I have one behind dash) If you need any specific advice blatmail me. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Phil, i used toggles supplied by RIF and also the "pricey" push buttons, i like them, one problem with the toggles though, you cant see them in the dark, i may illuminate with very small leds over the winter, wipers are difficult to find here kevin R black-ali HPC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Kevin, really like the waterproof fusebox. Where from ? Dave. X-flow(er) powered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Dave the fuse box was from Maplins, only a couple of £, i cut a hole in the bulkhead and the waterproof box then just reversed the fuse box without disconecting any wires, it was done to give better access to the fuses which was difficult under the dash with type of fuse box i have. kevin R black-ali HPC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Thanks guys - RIF switches it is then.. now to find some nice LED holders - brushed s/s would match well. Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewenm Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Chris Beardshaw (ChrisB) did a custom dash for his 7 and has got some great switches - contact him for pics and suppliers. Project BUMBLEBEE lives on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 If you have any doubts on connections or on/offs etc give me a call on 013873 75777. I did it the hard way until we found a source of proper switches just as I finished the re design and fit RiF Flying even faster in my very bright yellow 226bhp Duratec 7, with internal kevlar/carbon panels and pushrod suspension 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jano Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Holden now have some switches that have a LED in the tip. But at £4.50 a pcs, they are abit pricy, but you save the cost of a led Perhaps thats an option? http://www.holden.co.uk/ 1968 Lotus S3 , 1600 XFlow. Just love the smell of XFlow in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Hi Phil - I used these switches from VWP and they are excellent and well-priced (I'm not too keen on shiny stuff - black power!!!) - they have an integrated LED so no need to have an extra LED above the button. You can see them on my dash here. However, I made my own loom and so only needed on/off type to keep things simple. I also have 2 LEDs to indicate when left and right indicators are on - but then again I use a non-standard self-cancelling unit for indicators which allow me to use buttons on the wheel, so not sure about the standard CC setup (I use the Signal Dynamics unit which cost around 40 quid from the US and does indicators and hazards in one matchbox-sized box). You don't need the brake test light to pass MOT. Do a search on MOT and instruments (or something like that) as I think I raised the question when designing my dash..... For LED holders, I bought some nice black convex metal ones from Maplin - much nicer than the crappy plastic ones. Yamaham @ Keevil Edited by - Ferrino on 21 Sep 2006 15:39:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Thanks - just working out what I want at the moment - my main concern with a mass of toggles is knowing what they are - I only use the hazards at MOT time, same for the fog and the brake tester... I have seen the toggles with LED's fitted, but I don't think they are waterproof. This is the plan for the main dash here Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Like I said, you don't need a brake test light to pass MOT, and I just fitted the fog light for the MOT and removed it straight after, transferring that switch control to another function. That MXL unit is velly velly nice indeed, but I decided against it in the end as it would require either a big diameter wheel to see the display properly (giving the bus effect) or one of the 'cut' D-shaped wheels (which I don't like and would prolly need a 22% rack to use). The Mychron 3 is cheaper and has a smaller display which is all clearly visible with a 260mm MOMO. I think you can download templates from the AiM website which you can print, cut out & stick on to see how it would look on your dash...... would definitely do that before committing - I did it with the M3. Will also tell you how much dash tubing you will have to remove in order to fit it in there. Yamaham @ Keevil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Hi Tony, Thanks for the heads up on the brake test switch - I'll exclude that and just have a lamp as a warning for low level? Is that a requirement? I agree on the display. I've got the templates, just need to time to cut them out to try. The reason I like the MXL is I love the cleaness of it. I fell in love with the Motec dash a few years ago (Stan's 70k car had one) and this is the closest thing to it at a reasonable price. I have someone wanting to buy my car a present so I won't be paying directly for it, so the cost difference isn't a major concern. Agreed on the wheel thing - although I do love the idea of a cut-out wheel - I must be harking back to Knight Rider. 😬 My main concern at the moment is what sensors, etc to use and the basic Strada doesn't come with any. If anyone knows anything about thermistors, could they tell me if you can use a pull up resistor with them to get the correct value at, say 20 deg C? I thought you got different curves, etc, so whilst it might be right at 20, it still wouldn't be at 70 or 80... How did you do the road speed sensing? Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 No you don't need a low brake fluid warning and I don't have one fitted - I usually do a visual inspection of the MC now and again. For my 4 analogue channels/sensors I have: AiM thermoresistive sensors for water and oil temp (had to tap relevant areas to M5 to fit) - these are about 15 quid each from the US (way cheaper than the UK dealers). I then bought a VDO 0-10 BAR oil pressure sensor (ebay bargain for a tenner), which you need to fit a 1.8 k-ohm resistor to. And for the 4th channel I used the existing Caterham VDO fuel level sensor - I used a 2 k-ohm resistor and then measured the resistance while adding one litre at a time to an empty tank (you then use the software to input values and draw a curve). The signal is not damped, which just means you need to check fuel level when stationary or on level ground - not an issue at all. For road speed I use the AiM magnet sensor - the sensor is attached to my wingstay and I glued a single tiny magnet to the o/s wheel. Matches a GPS reading incredibly well Yamaham @ Keevil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Tony, YHM. Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Tony, love your dash design, might just have to flatter you by copying it I want to do a fairly minamilist and simple set up as I rarely drive the car at night, so it doesn't have to be that clever. As the VWC switches are only 2 way, would this mix work? 1 E733 (green) for Headlights off/on (to dip) 1 E734 (red) for Headlights, Full beam 1 E731 (amber) for Hazzards I thought about using one of these here either side of the steering wheel for indicators, any idea if this would work? Duratec SV, built in Dubai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 Can anyone tell me if you have to have a separate flasher (momentary type) for the lights or can you get away with just the side, dip and main on normal toggles? Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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