I've probably posted on this subject before...
Getting old spigot bearings out of K Series crankshafts.
When putting them in you need to heat the crank and freeze the bearing and spacer sleeve. By the time they're banged in and the temperatures have equalised they are SERIOUSLY tight.
I've tried three leg bearing pullers. It was just a question of which broke first, the back edge of the bearing or the puller.
I've tried all the hydraulic tricks with thick grease or even wet bread; you pack the space behind the bearing with something then hammer a close-fitting bolt or shaft into the centre of the bearing, the pressure being transferred to the back of the bearing driving it out - in theory, I've never managed to move one at all.
I've tried slide hammers, no joy.
I must have done seven or eight of them to date. Had to do another one yesterday. I was determined to get this one out with resorting to the usual levels of extreme violence, so I fitted a slide hammer into the bearing, put a heat gun on the end of the crank until it was far too hot to touch, then turned an air duster spray upside down and squirted propellant into the bearing. That gets you about -30°C or something, you need to wear gloves to avoid serious frostbite. The plan was to try to shock cool the bearig to loosen it a bit. I then went at it with the slide hammer as quickly as I could.
I counted 200 strokes of the slide hammer (with occasional cooling topup shots) before it broke. I was going at it as hard as I could. In the end the expanding collet on the end just chewed and bent. The bearing still hadn't moved at all.
So in the end I had to use the same technique I've ended up resorting to on every other one I've done (apart from the one where I tried to cut it out with a die grinder and cost myself a crankshaft).
Basically I used a sharp chisel and hammer to smash the front face of the bearing casing until I could get the mangled needle roller cage out, then used a cold chisel and a hammer to cut a groove down the length of the casing of the bearing, trying to avoid cutting through the spacer sleeve into the crank metal, which is hard when you're giving it hell with a big hammer and sharp chisel. In the end you can weaken the bearing case enough to allow you to hammer a sharp spike in between the bearing case and the spacer sleeve at several points until it partially collapses inwards until the mangled bearing case can be extracted.
After than you hammer the spacer sleeve inwards until that too collapses and comes out.
After that it's a case of cleaning out the hole, taking off any rough edges with wet and dry and hoping that you haven't done too much damage!
Having done a few, in this case there was only a bit of superficial marking behind the bearing and after a cleanup it was fine to install a new sleeve and bearing.
I've got it down to a fine art but I absolutely HATE having to do it! It really doesn't feel like the right way to treat a crankshaft.
I haven't yet found a better way they works though.
Any ideas beyond the standard tricks?