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Head lamps - take 3 (160 build)


700newtons

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After seeing some of the 160 photos I decided I wasn't quite happy with my headlamp wiring. So I redid them. I cut a small hole in the black cable sheath, and inserted the indicator wires. I'm told by the fellows at Caterham, that an alternative is to use tape to cover bare wires.

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You can see my wheels in the background. They arrived yesterday along with my back axle casing. However, I still need to get hold of the gear and diff oils. The specified oils are only sold in large quantities, so I need them from Caterham.

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  • Leadership Team

NB the cable might need a grommet as it goes in the bracket (photos of other 160s have this). I will look into it.

A grommet is definitely needed at the bottom end (as stated in the build instructions).

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Congrats on getting your wheels and axle casing and I'm impressed by your fortitude regarding the lights - I shall be pursuing the alternative method! 

How something as simple as gearbox and diff oil becomes a problem is beyond me; Shell products are not unique so surely they could provide a list of equivalents, let us buy it in the small quantities that other producers seem to have available and then provide a refund. Noting in the handbook that the diff oil needs replacing at 3mths - do they think (after our current experiences) that we are going to go back to Caterham to get it!  

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  • Leadership Team

I had a go at getting a grommet in the top hole of the headlamp bracket. However, it soon became apparent that there was no way I was going to get the wires through the hole and down the tube (clearly against nature). I'm going to stick with the arrangement above.

Peter: I'm about to go about bolting the front wings on. The instructions mention that the front cycle wings are marked with the position for the bolts. Do you have this on yours? I painted the underside of mine with stone chip, but I never noticed any markings.

 

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  • Leadership Team

Peter: the bolts on the of the diff; I assume they come off (but there is nothing in the instructions) - they just look like they hold something in place, and the diff does not slot in when they are in place. What did you do?

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Hi Simon - I didn't take anything off the diff before fitting. Looks to me like you might have some sort of 'transportation keep' in place that is retaining the half shaft bearing. I can't recall if there was one on mine; if there was it's in and diff turns OK. Mine you fitting the diff is quite fiddily; it only goes in one way, drops to about an inch from mating and then has to be turned and juggled a bit to align the main wheel with the casing space. Trouble is, I reckon if you don't have the sealant in place and do a 'dry run' it will be a devil to get it back out to add the sealant. 

I will look at the front wings tomorrow and yes, having read of wings flying off at inopportune moments 'I've decided to bolt mine as well, so I'm just as interested s to where the marks are. 

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  • Leadership Team

Thanks for your help. By the way, I reckon it is worth holding off putting the radiator on until the last minute. It significant reduces access. I have removed mine temporarily, until the wiring etc is finished.

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Looked at this again and blew up the picture of the diff in the assembly manual. It looks like those bolts (and whatever it is hanging off them) should be there.

You must be a mind reader, I was thinking exactly the same as per the rad. In fact I have asked Derek whether anyone has ever suggested cutting the repeater wire so you can load the Econo plug with a 'rats tail' and then re-join the wire with a single spade connector just inside the upper wishbone where it comes into the body. This would mean the wiring is done and dusted before the rad goes in and also make changing the cycle wing easier.

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  • Leadership Team

Thanks. After looking at Google images of suzuki Jimny diff I reached the same conclusion.

I taped on the cycle wings this evening - I'm trying to see problems before I drill holes. I notice that the wings have to be fairly far forward otherwise they clip the bodywork on full steering lock. (Unless this is the norm?)

I have emailed Derek about grommets where the wires go into the headlamp bracket. It is still bugging me.

for the diff sealant I'm going to use Granville black RTV silicone sealant. Tell me if you know better!

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Simon - I have no marks on my wings for the 1st holes; only for the repeaters. In most phots it looks like the front stay aligns with the middle hole of the repeaters. Good luck and I will be following your every word!

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Although the diffs are similar this one is from a little van called an Every. Just in case you are going to go trawling for LSD's or any other parts. Jimny wont fit.

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Im sure there is a locator mark underneath, when I built a SV175 . 

you really do not need to drill and bolt, you would never move my wings which are Sikaflexed on.

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For Ned and others in line - Re access for wiring Econoplugs once the rad is in.....................I measured up and cut the wire from the repeaters and made a 'rats tail' with the free end. I then crimped a female 'bullet' connector on the end and wound the wire with heat shrink tape, fitted it into the econoplugs with the other 5 wires (not all coloured as the manual says I might add!), ran it up a heat shrink length containing the other wires so it comes out where the other wires come into the body, then tie wrapped it aft to just inside and above the upper wishbone. It waits there now for when I get my wheels and can fit the cycle wings. The tail coming from the repeater will get a male 'bullet' connector crimped on after threading through the wing strut. It will then plug into the female. Meanwhile I can get on with fitting the rad and intercooler without worrying about access to tidy up the wiring.  And if I ever have to renew a wing it will be v easy to disconnect the repeater, cut off the bullet connector and withdraw the wire without disturbing the Econoplug. Not rocket science but 'every bit helps' as they say, and it might solve a similar problem for you.    

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  • Leadership Team

I have since found out from Derek at Caterham that:

  • The diff does not need bolts removing. It goes in as shown in the photo above.
  • They can deal with the headlamp bracket upper grommet problem at the post build check.
  • they are going to send he positions of the bolts for the cycle wings. Apparently the position does matter. I'll post them on here once I know.

By the way, when sorting out headlamp wiring, Holts rubber lube is definately your friend.

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