Willie.

Dave,

Cable end dislocating?

I'd check the pedal box platic locater, and whatever way the cable locates on the TBs...check if either are loose or not sitting right (i.e. have worked loose, but slid back into position).

I'm thinking the cable outer could have become dislocated (Is that the right word?), which would cause the high revs, and depending on how it was sitting, a stiffness in the inner.

I'd check pedal box end first. Check if the plastic thingy will pull straight out...that's what my money's on. (I think it needs a quarter turn to lock).

Willie

Cheers Boss, silicone gun loaded and ready for action.

Thanks for the tip, I'll be extra careful now.

I just faced exactly the same dilema...only difference being the junk is my Dad's so I can't throw it out.

I've just bought a second hand concrete, sectional, double garage. Fibre cement roof (No drips) and dead easy to dismantle/erect. Got it for £350. 2 Saturday mornings & afternoons will have it down...I haven't put it up yet, that's the next couple of saturday's jobs.

It was this or a covered trailer. This came up quicker and you can't change an engine in a covered trailer.

Just buy one close to home.

Brucey,

5 of us came over in convoy from N.Ireland to the 50th event. We called in to Emerald en route as Timbo was getting his mapped.

I was bullied into getting a power run to see if all my tinkering was to any avail.

ECU is original 1400 Supersport ECU. Flywheel is standard 1400 item, gearbox is Caterham 6speed with 3.92 diff.

Its a 1994 car.

I run the cream injectors, 1800 pressure regulator, plastic inlet manifold, Supersport throttle body (Think it's 52mm Dia), Supersport ECU & cams, Paul Ivey Big Valves, Powerspeed 4-2-1 and a ported head. This lot passed emissions (Although not 100% sure it was that TB, might've been smaller platsic one).

At Emerald with the above, it was misfiring a bit on light throttle, due to being rich. However, at full throttle or higher RPM fuelling was spot on.

That's the limitation with running the MEMS. I could back off the fuel pressure, but then it would be too lean at the top end...where it is important.

If you can afford it, an Emerald will get the most out of your setup.

I can't afford an Emerald, but lucky for me...I never use light throttle anyway 😬

Brucey,

I've gone 1400SS to 1800SS.

I'd no problems with the 1400 flywheel on the 1800.

I assume you know about the spigot bearing needing a sleeve, and possibly the box input shaft needing shortened.

I can't remember which TB & Pressure regulator I was using at the time...but mine passed an MOT emmissions no problem.

Just for your encouragement, mine is 148.1bhp (Measured at Emerald)...although I do have bigger valves & a ported head.

Never bother with a template for the tensioner hole...just start drilling. Any extra holes will loose weight anyway 😬

I run an Autocom Pro 7 Sport with 1 x yellow ear defender, and 1 x Sensorcom Britney Spears jobbie (With standard ear mouldings, fits me fine). Connect it to Nokia N95 and get Sat Nav in my ears...absolutely love it. The girlfriend isn't too keen on the big yella Ear Muffs though.

The Autocom is designed for bikes, so that means its robust and ideally suited to the Se7en.

You don't need to buy new. Keep your eye on eBay, stacks of people buy bikes with them fitted, and remove them for various reasons. I got my Pro 7 Sport for about £50 I think.

Make sure you get a unit that can be connected to a transciever, then when mates get them, you can all chat car to car (Look for Autocom Bike to Bike support).

As regards the T1R...I had them fitted for about a year, driving the car every day, and not slow 😬...loved them.

Then I fitted R888s and love them even more.

As Simon says, the argument against most sticky tyres (R888s, A048s) is standing water; but if you're hitting standing water at 90mph...you're a bit of a balloon anyway.

I found the T1Rs nice and progressive, they don't just let go and laugh at you. Pretty good grip in the dry, slightly slippy in the damp/wet if pushing on and they wear well.

However, I found the R888s to be even better if every circumstance. In the dry they're ubsurdly good, in the damp/wet they're better than the T1R (They are softer and get warmer), and they don't wear too bad. I've done about 5000miles on them so far, and I'm fond of getting the tail out.

To be honest, I don't think the tyre will make all that much of a difference when hitting standing water in a Se7en. I'd say it's more to do with the attitude of the car. Most occasions can be avoided...the rest you just shut your eyes and keep her straight

Never tried A021s, but had Toyo T1R before fitting R888s.

I've been on the R888s, in all weathers, since August til I took it off the road a few weeks ago (MOT time)...and would definetly recommend them.

I've had them in Snow (Top of the Stelvio pass) and torrential rain during a thunderstorm in Geneva (Having just driven straight there from London). I'm talking hood up, wipers full pitch, bouncing rain. I have always been impressed.

Don't let the Toyo's tread pattern put you off...they work better in the wet than you'd think. Only thing to note is, as with any similar tyre (A048 etc), they can let go on you when they're cold.

Do all these QRs require a new drive (Splines/hex) welded onto the existing column?

Espically interested in the Racetech one.

Peter...did Caterham tell you that when you complained? 😬

I don't think that theory would really apply to the boss. In my humble opinion, they should be hardened...its madness not to. In the event of a crash, I'd far rather have a wheel to hang onto, than the boss to snap and leave a sharp column to impale my eyeball.

Case hardening would be suitable, as it's only the mating faces (To a shallow depth) that are hardened...leaving the normal material underneath.

Cagey,

I'm only thinking out loud. Most I've seen work on a hex bar and socket type of thing. Exactly the same as splines, pushing off/on is going to wear it.

A taper is an easy way to remove any wear/slack. Sierras use a tapered hex drive, with a bolt that tightens it all up nice. I'm sure it would be possible, to incorperate a taper, or some means of removing the slack, in the design. Major factor here is the cost of added complication.

Willie

Edited by - Opposite Lock on 3 Jan 2008 19:52:19

Cheers Knowley,

You'd think someone would develop one on a taper...couldn't be that hard

Slight hijack...but I assume you've got your answer 😬

Anyone ever get play in the QR? I was in a single seater a week ago, and the play in the QR was incredible. I would imagine the wheel would be on/off alot more in it, than in a Caterham though.

Willie

Simon,

In the most basic/simple terms; Understeer is when you turn the wheel and the car goes straight...Oversteer is when you turn the wheel and the car goes sideways.

Adjustable dampers are good for "tuning" the handling characteristics. Also, try adjusting the toe in/out.

Willie

Or you could try Toyo T1-R

I run my car year round and wore them for a while...now wearing R888s in all weathers (No problems)

Willie

I agree with Julian, you may find that you need to change your driving style.

I'm not meaning to disrepect you, and I'm not saying "improve"...merely change. I assume this is not a plate type diff, but a Quaife Torque Biasing diff?

Can you describe any better what makes it so nervous, what is happening? With an LSD, in a long corner, if you change the throttle position, you will find the car "yawing". So if you were driving around a long right hander and you lifted the throttle, the car would turn in a bit more...or if you gave it some more, it would turn out a bit wider. Is this what you mean by nervous?

Its a long time since I drove a car with a Quaife ATB, but my own (TranX plate type) doesn't feel nervous at all.

I would check your rake angle, if necessary change it and then try again. I found on my car that changing the rake really changed the feel from "nervous" (Rear shimmying) to planted.

edited to add: You may find that fitting the LSD hasn't "changed" anything...just exagerated something that was already there. So don't think about what has/hasn't changed to cause the nervousness...think about what you can change to make it more planted and you'll much nicer car.

Hope you get it sorted.

Willie

Edited by - Opposite Lock on 23 Dec 2007 23:16:18

Neil1202,

What colour is your car? Is that Kawasaki Orange?

Willie

Ian,

Sounds like it could be the throttle pedal itself sticking. Mine did similar. Spray the pedal pivot with WD40 while working it. Its easier to do this with the pedal box cover off.

Willie

Faulty throttle position sensor?

I haven't a clue about Sigmas, but have had a similar problem on a K.

When you blip the throttle, does it seem as if it's got something in its throat and choke? (Sorry, best description I can think off).

On the K, the TPS sits below the louvres in the bonnet, so rain runs straight into it causing it to short. I just opened mine up, dried it out and re-assembled with glue...no more problem.

Worth a shot.

Willie

Tolerances? You've just got rid of a truck engine, and now you're worried about tolerances?

Personally I'd have thought 0.1 and 0.2mm wouldn't be far away (Had to convert to thou to understand it). The inlets do run a fair bit cooler, I mind doing an experiment on this at tech.

What's the worst that can happen? You'll only loose compression. The cams aren't that bonkers that you risk touching a piston.

Willie

Igor,

Thanks for the input. I appreciate its not the youngest...though it is well specced and extremely good fun 😬

If anyone's interested in it, talk to me...I'm sure we can sort something out.

Willie

It's still here, so if anyone is interested...make me an offer.

Willie

Espace side exit exhaust?

Willie

DMT,

I'd put it on Pistonheads. I also have a car for sale, and have had alot more (Buyer's) interest via it, than Blatchat.

It's free and you can put on pics...so worth a try.

All the best,

Willie

BTTT

Still for sale.