vikebo

The girling number is located on the side of my master cylinder. Burton Power often uses the part numbers of their suppliers in the catalogue, and I think they had more than one girling master cylinders in one of the previous catalogues, but I could not see them in the last one. The online catalogue seems to have replacement parts for the girling master cylinders. If you don't have an old Burton catalogue (I could not find mine at the moment), try a google search for the part number you have and something like girling master cylinder. Eivind

Martyn, thank you for your reply. The center tap was fine, but I got a suggestion from a car mechanic I know, and he was right. The sparks were arching through the rotor. It is probably cracked internally even though it is quite new. Luckily I had an old one which I could try, and now the engine starts. Eivind

Hi, My Seven died suddently a few days ago while driving slowly downhill. No signs before the engine just stopped. It has a Lotus Twin Cam with an Aldon Ignitor and an electric fuel pump (and the pressure seems ok). The battery voltage is approx. 12.5 Volts, and I can measure it on the low voltage side of the coil (Lucas, but unsure which). The resistance from the 12 V terminal of the coil to the GND terminal is 3-4 Ohms while the resistance from the high voltage terminal to chassis is approx. 6-7000 Ohms. I have measured the signal from the Aldon unit with an oscilloscope, and is gives a square wave signal, so I guess it is ok. All the high voltage leads are 2-3 years old from Magnecore and looks fine. The resistance from the coil end to the center tap of the distributor cap and also from each of the spark plug connectors to the different terminals inside the cap are 3-4 kOhms. My timing lamp (and also another one I tried) does not flash on any of the plug leads or the high voltage coil lead. When I connect the plug leads to a spare spark plug there is no spark, but if I connect the coil lead to a spark plug I do get sparks... To me, it seems like there is a problem with the distributor cap or the rotor. The rotor and the center tap seems fine, the contacts in the lid are slightly pitted, but not bad. I also find it strange that it stopped so suddently and will not fire at all if it is the cap. Any ideas? Eivind

Anyone tried K&N oil filters here? From the site: "Each of our canister type automotive and marine oil filters comes with a 1” nut welded to the top of the canister so they can be easily wrenched-off with a standard tool." Eivind

No, at least mine can be pulled straigth out when the fasteners for the air horns have been removed. If I remember correctly, it may be a locking screw underneath holding them in place, but not on mine. Eivind

Thank you both for your replies. I would prefer not to take the engine out, so a spacer seems difficult. I have had a look at the Pipercross and Ramair sites, and I guess it should be possible to find something that will fit. The kn-filters I have are quite large. The easiest is probably to get some sox first and then replace them when I get the car here and can do the proper measurements. Eivind

Hi, When I got the car the Webers were fitted with very long trumpets (approx 75 mm) and I bought the deepest kn-filters I found. The filters were pn.: 56-9107 which is 102 mm deep. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-9107 However, there was not enough clearance and the airflow was restricted so I fitted Pipercross socks instead. These crumbled away after a while so I got some shorter air horns and fitted the kn-filters. I have now fitted a 5-speed gearbox and the engine has moved a bit to the rear. The problem is that the filter element now touch the cutout in the bonnet. It seems like the kn-filters with pn.: 56-1350 http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-1350 may be smaller (unfortunately the car with the filters is far away until spring so I can not measure the current filter dimensions, and the size is not specified on the kn website). Does anyone know if the 56-1350 are smaller? Or should I just get some new Pipercross socks instead? Eivind

Hi, Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately the gearbox is already in the car (well actually I am quite happy I got it back in), so I guess I have got a problem. Will look into it later, at least I know I have the correct adapter now. :-) I have no reverse light, so the reverse sensor is not used. Eivind

Hi, I recently changed from a 4-speed to a 5-speed type 9 gearbox. The speedometer wire did not fit, and I have bought a 90 deg adapter. The problem is that it it still does not fit. I presume the adapter will fit the gearbox (it was dark and late, so I did not try that end yesterday), but obviously will not fit the wire. Here is a picture of the parts: http://www.home.no/vikebo/bilder/adapter_1.jpg Will I need a new wire? Or is there another adapter I should use? Eivind

Dick, I had some noises in my Lotus Twin Cam and got a tip about trying a stethoscope. It feels quite stupid using it, but it works really great. I got one with a long metal rod (see link) which makes it easy to locate the soure of the noise. http://www.biltema.no/products/product.asp?iItemId=81909 My problem was that the con rods hit the dry sump pan. The sound (through the stethoscope) was a lot larger when the metal rod touched the pan than when it touched any other parts. The cost was about £6, BTW. Eivind

Graham, John, Since I live in Norway it would probably take more than a week before I had the distributor back from Aldon. Anyway, I have not had a serious blat since last November, so some days more does not matter too much. Had to rebuild the engine and also get a new gearbox from BGH, took more time than expected to get the car driveable. I opened it yesterday. The main problem was that the screws holding the Aldon Ignitor in place were seriously damaged so I had to drill one of them out. Then I removed the gear (hold in place by a split pin), and the rotating thing could be pulled out of the housing. The rotor is attached to the upper end of a tubular part which rotates on the shaft of the lower part (where the gear is attached). It was held in place by a small plastic part which was damaged when I pulled them apart with a two armed pulling thing (do not know what it is called). The upper part (with the rotor on) had rusted onto the lower part. After cleaning off the rust and lubricating the parts I assembled them again. Had to make a new nylon part to hold the two parts together. Now I only need some new screws to attach the Aldon Ignitor. Seems like it is something like 4BA or 5BA, guess I have to rethread it to M4... Regarding the magnets, I was lucky since the black sleeve did not come apart. The upper part does rotate a bit when the gear is fixed. It is this rotation which gives the advance. If the advance is 30 degrees, it should be possible to rotate the upper part (and rotor) 15 degrees counterclockwise. This is done by the centrifugal force acting on the weights when the rpm increases. It is spring loaded and snaps back when released. Mine is working now. The advance was checked with a timing lamp I borrowed. I did suspect the lamp to be the faulty at first and ordered one for myself, but I guess the lamp was more or less OK. I took some photos of the internals if anyone are interested. Thank you for your help. Eivind

Chris, Thank you for your reply, guess I will have to open it then. Eivind

Hi, I have got an Aldon Ignitor (LU143) fitted to the distributor for my Lotus Twin Cam. The problem is that it seems like there is no advance when increasing the rpm. If I remove the cap and try to rotate the rotor-thing, it does not rotate. I guess the mechanical advance system is stuck, or does the Aldon unit provide the advance based on the rpm? It would be nice to know before I take the distributor apart... Eivind

Hi, I have got a type 9 gearbox which I am going to fit to my Twin Cam engined Seven with an aluminium bellhousing. My problem is that I do not know where my clutch release bearing is from. It seems like the usual bellhousing has got a release "arm" which goes to the other side of the bellhousing, mine pivots on a ball half way from the centre of the bellhousing. BTW, mine is hydraulically operated and I understand they are usually operated by wire. I have ordered two different crb's from Redline, but none of them seems to fit. Some pictures of the unit are here: http://www.home.no/vikebo/crb/ OD: ~71.1 mm, ID: ~41.5 mm, W: ~10.4 mm Any ideas? Thanks Eivind

Hi, I tried to e-mail Rimmer Bros regarding a 4.11:1 crow wheel & pinion for my Ital/Marina axle, mentioning the 3.27:1 with part number UKC6733 which Noger linked to earlier in this thread. The reply was: "Thanks for the enquiry, for this type of axle we can supply 3.63:1 or 3.27:1 ratios, the 4.11:1 ratio is for the Spitfire/GT6 which is a different axle, sorry. Regards Rimmer Bros Ltd." I am a bit confused, should the parts for a GT6 or another Triumph fit my axle? Eivind