tillson

Hi I have just been getting the Caterham ready just in case we have a summer and noticed that the lower drain plug in the radiator has split in two causing a very slow leak. I have never come accross this before. Does anyone know where to get a new one from? The car is a 1999 1.6 K series (not supersport) with a standard radiator. Thanks Tom

Whilst checking over my 7 the other day, I've noticed that the front O/S lower ball joint seems to have excessive play in it. (1999 1.6 K) I am resonably competent working on the car and would like to change the joint myself, but I have never undertaken anything like this before. Can anyone offer any advice? I would really like to know: 1) A few pointers on how to remove the old joint and fit the new one. I know nothing about how these joints assemble / split. 2) Is it best to replace the top joint at the same time? 3) Should I be replacing the joint on the nearside as well? 4) Do Caterham stock these? Someone has told me that Demon Tweeks sell a replacement that has a better dirt seal than the factory standard joint. Anyone know about this? Are they worth looking into? Sorry if these questions are a bit basic, but I would like to do the job myself. It's part of the satisfaction of owning a 7 for me! Thanks Tom

Could you let me know how you get on with the new sender? Although the extra oil has cured the problem, I occaisionally get strange readings and wonder if the sender is to blame. The "experts" say that the standard Caterham wet sump arrangement is pants and the dips in oil pressure can lead to premature failure of the big ends. The general opinion for a satisfactory cure is to go for a dry sump but at £1000+ I can't really afford that at the moment. The other option is the apollo tank at £200. I may upgrade to this over the winter. Regards Tom

No. The wet sump no apollo should also be checked with the engine running. I've been through all this on the Se7ens email exchange and also had it confirmed by Caterham. You risk serious engine damage if the pressure fluctuates as you describe. I had exactly the same symptoms and an extra 1/2 to 3/4 litres of oil sorted it. Regards Tom

I had this problem recently and it was due to lack of oil. The oil level should be checked with the engine hot and running. If you are not registering anything on the dipstick under these conditions, then you have seriously low oil levels. Do you notice a drop in pressure in a RH bend? That is another indication of low oil.

Thanks chaps! I've added another 250ml which brings the hot running level up to the top of the dipstick and all seem well now. I may consider an Apollo tank as the standard wet sump set up seems a bit fudge by Caterham to make the thing work. Thanks again Tom

Could someone be kind enough to e-mail or post the relay installation instructions? The search facility does not appear to be working. Cheers Tom thomas.tillson@ntlworld.com

Yes, I replaced the filter although I din't pre-fill it. I just put 4.5 litres into the sump via the oil filler.

Didn't measure it.......Doh

I've recently changed the oil in my 1.6 K series (No Apollo Tank. I have re-filled it with 4.5 litres of the prescribed Comma Oil. I've heard varying quantities mentioned from as little as 4 litres to a max of 4.5. Anyway, Ive put 4.5 in. Now when I accelerate the oil P dips to virtually nothing for a second or so and then recovers to about 4.5 bar. Same when cornering only it stays low until I'm going straigh again and is accompanied by a rattle which I assume is lack of oil to the tappets? This didn't happen before the oil change. The dipstick is showing about 20% short of Max (Oil hot, engine running). Are the above syptoms those of too little oil in the sump? Is it safe to put in more oil than the 4.5 litres I already have in there? I'm not using it until I get this sorted for fear of engine damage. Thanks for any advice. Tom

Is it wise to use a thread locking compound on the windage plate fixing studs and oil pickup pipe bolts?

Steve I’ve had the car since September 91 when I bought it from Caterham. Since them, I have done just less than 3000 miles and haven’t used it since September last year. At the time of buying, Caterham said that they had serviced it. I specifically asked about the foam baffle and they stated that it had been renewed. As Caterham serviced the car, I assume they used Comma oil. The windage plate ( I assume that is the bent bit of Ali. that sandwiches the foam to the bottom of the engine block.) is about 400mm x 200 mm (Guess) and is secured at four points approximately along its centreline. I suppose, thinking about it, there is nothing to stop it “flapping” at the edges, which over time could cause damage to the foam. As far as cooking the engine is concerned, I’m not aware that I have. I haven’t done any track days, thrashed the arse off it, or stood in traffic for long periods. On the point of oil, I’m thinking of using Halford’s Fully Synthetic, I understand that this is Comma Syner G? Any thoughts on that? Anyway, I’ve re-fitted the sump, but I think I’ll take it off again after about 1000 miles and have a look what going on! Best Regards Tom

I've just taken the sump off my 1.6 K series and changed the foam baffle. Caterham were supposed to have changed it 3000 miles ago, but to my horror, I find that it is starting to break up. There are lumps of the stuff in the sump pan and trapped in the gauze in the oil pickup pipe. I haven't noticed any adverse effects, so I have flushed thing through and started to re-assemble. Can someone please give me the torque settings for the oil pickup mounting bolts, aluminium plate fixing nuts and the sump pan bolts? Many thanks Tom Tillson

I would be very grateful if you could e-mail me a copy of the diagram. thomas.tillson@ntlworld.com Tom

Regarding the problem of moving contact parts not being coated with oil after the car has stood for a while, does anyone have any views / experience of oil additives such as Slick 50? They make very impressive claims on the can, but how does it perform in reality. Tom