simon_h

Titan is most likely. They produce the majority of the unique caterham castings 

The ECU in question is a Lotus T6 ecu. The pin out is similar but slightly different to a Lotus Evora. There wont be anyone who has bothered to hack the unique Caterham code in this unit I am fairly sure. The dash will stop working as the ecu drives the dials via CAN and they suit the ecu's CAN database not a general one.

Best bet is to do one of the following;

Cut off the plugs and fit your own plugs to what ever ecu you please.

Cut up the ecu, or find a scrap one, remove the header connector and make an adapter loom to your choice of ecu.

Get a plug compatible EFI Euro8 ecu but you will need to re-pin the connectors as it is a slightly different pin out.

Contact SCS in the UK who make a plug compatible replacement unit for the Lotus versions and ask them if they will write you some code to run a Ford Duratec in that unit.

Remove everything and fit a UK spec cable throttle wiring loom, MBE ecu, cable throttle body and pedal. Probably the easiest route all said.

I take it that yours is broken? The only parts changed internally from the standard duratec are the cams, valve springs, dependent on year the rod bolts and the oil pump if dry sumped. The rest is just external dress parts.

The current non vented front discs are also Caterham specific now and no longer a Triumph disc I believe

Depends if your engine is a VVT one or not as to whether they can make it the same as a 310. If its fixed cam you can get to supersport spec with cams and the other required parts and then multi throttles get it towards 150 but it wont be 310 spec.

Bearing in mind the engine and transmission are about 130kg of the total 550 odd kg of the finished item then any trestle that can manage 200kg each is plenty. Its light enough to lift by hand, one end at a time, onto normal height ones. You wont be lifting it off by hand or putting the engine and transmission in while up there so they will be plenty good enough.

I have something that look like these and have done a couple of builds happily.

A lot of people just use 3 axle stands at full height and don't bother with trestles at all.

Unfortunately unless it's still got an id attached that's effectively scrap parts. It's probably recoverable at far greater cost than it's ever going to be worth. 
On the other hand TVRGlen would call that an easy repair and have it up for about £12k going by his latest caterham cons he's attempting 

I'd have to see if I've got anything in my notes from back then but think the D4 engine code might have ended up being used on the 485. It was almost 10 ago so that might be wrong. 

Seal them with O2 sensor safe silicone gasket maker, not bathroom sealant. It'll hold and seal enough while assembled but come away when you pull it apart 

There isn't going to be an assembly guide for something that they don't supply down to. The basic kit has quite a bit of stuff fitted that isn't described because it doesn't need to be. 
Just photograph it thoroughly and make notes. It's all fairly simple anyway 

This is what the iva manual says. You need some sort of immobilisation device as well as the key. 

Maybe there is a sensor problem. If its really running that lean you would expect HC's off the scale due to partial burns. CO would be sort of ok though.

If it was a leak pre sensor then the fuel trims would have to richen up to compensate. It could be a leak post sensor diluting things. Have to remember the lambda value isn't from the sensor but the sniffed gasses.

I guess if the car is genuinely ok elsewhere then taking the result to the original test centre could give cause for a refund or you could report them to the authorities to get the machine checked out. 

If the sensor is dead and the result valid I would expect the engine to be running open loop and yes the lambda would be a little outside the limits but no car with a cat fitted is calibrated to be that far away from stoic in the emissions region full stop. Well unless its set up by an amateur who has no clue what they are doing. 

I could see it on the phone but not on here. Anyway, its very unlikely your car is so clean its producing nothing that can be measured. A modern real car can be really low but zero's everywhere? Not likely. The lambda reading is so far lean it would be misfiring, as an example a lambda of 1.2 is around 17:1 afr. My rough calc suggests your result is around 21:1 afr.

I would suggest getting it sniffed somewhere else before doing anything as I think their machine is probably faulty or they have a massive air leak in the sample pipe.

You say it's only failed on the lambda part of the test? Passed all gasses fine? Just outside the default lambda range? Put your test result up on here 

The rubber covered ones are the standard ones as far as I'm aware. 
Your picture is too blurry but they sort of look like Apem switches.

Apem momentary switch

That's good news then. As Caterham are now fusion welding it's gone full circle with the S3 frame 

Umm and don't do that 

According to the Lotus Seven Register site the S3 started at no.2311, so yours is about 70 on from that. The frames were made by the Universal Radiator Company and Arch so that maybe yours is not from Arch. If the URC gas welded them rather bronze welded them I don't have any idea. Scrape some paint off the welds as the bronze welding does look quite like normal welding when painted, to me anyway, but obviously is a golden colour when not. Just read on a bit further and it appears Arch got Lotus to switch over to bronze welding so its quite likely yours is from the URC as they were slowly phased out during the S3 production in favour of Arch apparently 

As his car has the steering wheel on the wrong side LSB is correct for a lhd car. The etched by hand detail on the chassis plate is pretty much the same as my Elan, style and handwriting, so it looks like it's pretty original to me 

Lambda sensor I would say. It's not even trying to go closed loop and get to lambda 1. 
Stick a new one in and see if that helps. 

Want to, can't though 

I'd keep it orange myself. Be good to see some pics when its done. Would love a proper SLR with a non messed around with VHPD in it. 

I had similar after driving into France somewhere for a track day, it had cracked on the journey. This was the first journey the car had done since being put together and mot'd a couple of days previously so it was a bit of a risk that something would fail I guess. Was an unused but old silencer. Not speaking French didn't help but found a back street garage who understood pointing and a €20 note offered. All good since. 

Looks like they must have commonised the 485 and 620 pump across the board if they have fitted that to a 360. It lets the ecu adjust the pressure rather than just a single available pressure from a reg in a returnless system. It'll run at about 8 bar pressure to the engine if that little gizmo goes wrong 

Speed reading 10% high or low? High is correct and within tolerance so you are more likely to be within the speed limits. Low needs addressing. 

Saying he will have them might be wrong unless things have changed. I had a set from a 96 car to be rebuilt a few years ago and one of the bushes was not available anymore even direct from bilstein. They are different top to bottom on the front at least I seem to remember and I think you'd struggle without a press unless you've got a very big vice to press them in. 

Compomotive CXR are pretty light and look good 

CXR wheels