ECR

Well, I have one sitting on the shelf but as the fitted 4.1/1 cwp has a retail price close to that of the quaffe diff, I suspect it won't interest you.

Good luck with your search

If it's fuel hose it will be internally reinforced and you won't expand it. Plastic tubing can be expanded by softening in boiling water/ heat gun

I quite like that tube idea ....

Yes, I have one of their dog boxes....

If it's come from Quaiffe is it still a standard synchro box?

Can you disconnect the fat battery cable and pull it through with string taped to it for rethreading. This should give enough room to pull the oil gauge brass fitting through. Then pull the battery cable back through. Liberal dose  of silicone spray will help

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What's the gold "washer" above the union. Is it a dowty seal that needs replacing?

that sort of joint doesn't normally need a dowty seal at that point

Me too, I had never broken a ring until I had the problem. Light lubrication does make a big difference. It allows proper tightening of the clamp (use your small ratchet to minimise the faff of tightening)and reduces ( but doesn't absolutely eliminate) the sticktion between tool and piston that oily mentions. In its favour,its (6?) times cheaper than the sleeve type and accommodates different size pistons which the sleeve doesn't. It's not a bad tool.....

I prefer that type too...

I prefer that type too...

Just watching the assembly of an engine on u tube and it jogged a memory. I use the type of piston ring compressor that is basically multi sheave thin sheet steel wrapped in a circle with a ratchet device on the outside that is tightened with an L shaped key. It worked well for a while and then I managed to break two successive piston rings whilst using it. I couldn’t understand why. I had tightened the ratchet as much as it would go, even using the small wrench from my socket set.
The answer was, that as an amateur, the tool probably only gets used once a year (if that) and the layers of steel had dried out preventing the tool from fully tightening. A smear of oil between the layers made an enormous difference. I recommend it if you use this type of tool

Glad it worked. I thought that I remembered the solution but it's so long ago now .....

Twist the rack?

You need to be sure that your current ecu is remappable as any head work/camshafts etc would be fairly pointless without a remap.The JPE engine had headwork and camshaft change and apart from that cosworth pistons to up the compression ratio and give valve clearance. Everything else was standard Depending on cam lift you might well need to pocket the standard pistons. You won't notice any bottom end problems or reliability problems  if the job is done correctly

I think the extension thread is 1/2 UNC 

Took the front anti roll bar off my 2.0VX years ago....,

No it won't remove more metal, just the crud in the threads. It's always crucial to make sure that the tap is properly engaged in the existing thread though.

I'm struggling to interpret Fords instruction that the level must be"no more than the specified distance (10 mm?) below the filler plug". So if I fill it to a level that is say 15mm below the filler plug I must add more oil?

That being the case, filling till oil pours from the filler plug fulfills the instruction and the filler plug can be used as a level plug also. The only way you could overfill is if the car is on a significant slope (or by bench filling)

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A stainless bolt will be significantly weaker than the grade 8 (?) bolt that you currently use .....

there you go .....

Can't claim to have innovated it but it does work well. No feeling around on your knees ( in the rain) for the dzus fasteners. A one handed operation and no tools needed

Where did you see that Brian ?

Not tried it, but according to Steve perks, it's possible to fit two seals, one behind the other. Maybe this will double the leak time? :)

Stainless steel ones exist

expensive though I guess

I had a lower front wishbone bush tear out of the chassis. It left a gaping hole not unlike the one shown. I took it to arch assuming that tubes would need to be cut out and replaced but they very neatly bridged the gap with braze. A delight to watch them do it and a very neat and strong finished job