ECR

16/53-13     4 off

23/57-13.   3off

24/57-13.  2 off

Size explanation: 16/53-13 equates to a tread width of 16cm, and an overall diameter of 53cm

these are old but still have reasonable tread markers. They need to be collected from very near curborough

free of charge as they’re taking up room

They were Ford , and they are sold.,…

I have some old (but still got tread depth) ex formula Renault 2.0 slicks which are taking up space. Not sure exactly what/how many but I think the sizes are 23/57-13 and 20/54-13. FOC if you’re interested but must be collected near curborough.

Roger

You also avoid the “oh sh*t “ moment when you realise that you’ve forgotten to plug the rear of the gearbox and are now paddling in gearbox oil

🤣

I have always split engine and gearbox on all the cars I’ve worked on (Vauxhall, K, Duratec). Why take the gearbox out if there’s nothing wrong with it? There’s a lot less weight swinging over the engine bay and a smaller lump to manoeuvre into place. The only downside that I can see is that it’s sometimes fiddly to line the first motion shaft of the gearbox with the clutch plates but a bit of trial and error sorts that out. 
Your choice….

4 1/4” then 🤣

The cars not with me and I’m having brain fade, what pcd are the ford hubs. 4 inch or 4 1/4 inches

John

you’d have no clutch fork to connect a cable to (unless I’m missing something…)

Well if you have a lathe or know someone who has, get the nose of the tool turned down. 
A couple of small nuts worked for me

Same for me Ian, cable makes a lot more sense.

cant offer an opinion on the question ,sorry

They’re pressed aluminium and will be sold with the wheels

You have blatmail…

You have blatmail…

As the title says. These were supplied with my car and are true 1990 vintage (ideal if rebuilding an older car to original specs). The tyres are old and the rears are worn but good enough to have fun with. Collection only from DE13 (very close to Curborough). 

I have the original centre caps also ...

£150.00

I will soon be listing the original 1990 leather seats when I can exhume and photograph them ...

Ok then I wouldn’t worry too much about it. As has been said there’s no synchro on reverse it’s just a simple cog.Nothing to break really

If cable operated try adjusting the cable. If hydraulic bleed the clutch…

Sounds like the clutch is dragging a little

I have two toolboxes available (one for spares and one for tools) with a purpose built paddock trolley. I now have a covered trailer but they fitted on the bed of my previous four wheel Brian James trailer in the centre over the wheels (one either side). This kept the nose weight of the trailer down. They are ex WD so we’ll made.

collection only please. They are sited very close to curborough in de13

£50-00

I suspect that they’re bespoke . I’ve never seen oem part numbers quoted.

Don’t forget that the radius arm moves with the suspension. Perhaps any existing hole isn’t big enough for that ?

If they’re really stuck you can buy a wiper puller. I’ve never needed to use one myself but it may be a last ditch solution

Yes, I have seen arb balls with a reduced circumferance…..

I/2” unf I think…

KD- knock down (ie not factory built)

the engine number is stamped on the block adjacent to the dipstick iirc

I would use blue medium strength thread lock on any fastening in the sump.Belt and Braces perhaps but the consequences of a fastening coming loose in the sump will probably be grave

You can fit two oil seals, one on top of the other. It might solve the problem as the second seal will run on an unused portion of the shaft…