ECR

4 1/4” then 🤣

The cars not with me and I’m having brain fade, what pcd are the ford hubs. 4 inch or 4 1/4 inches

John

you’d have no clutch fork to connect a cable to (unless I’m missing something…)

Well if you have a lathe or know someone who has, get the nose of the tool turned down. 
A couple of small nuts worked for me

Same for me Ian, cable makes a lot more sense.

cant offer an opinion on the question ,sorry

They’re pressed aluminium and will be sold with the wheels

You have blatmail…

You have blatmail…

As the title says. These were supplied with my car and are true 1990 vintage (ideal if rebuilding an older car to original specs). The tyres are old and the rears are worn but good enough to have fun with. Collection only from DE13 (very close to Curborough). 

I have the original centre caps also ...

£150.00

I will soon be listing the original 1990 leather seats when I can exhume and photograph them ...

Ok then I wouldn’t worry too much about it. As has been said there’s no synchro on reverse it’s just a simple cog.Nothing to break really

If cable operated try adjusting the cable. If hydraulic bleed the clutch…

Sounds like the clutch is dragging a little

I have two toolboxes available (one for spares and one for tools) with a purpose built paddock trolley. I now have a covered trailer but they fitted on the bed of my previous four wheel Brian James trailer in the centre over the wheels (one either side). This kept the nose weight of the trailer down. They are ex WD so we’ll made.

collection only please. They are sited very close to curborough in de13

£50-00

I suspect that they’re bespoke . I’ve never seen oem part numbers quoted.

Don’t forget that the radius arm moves with the suspension. Perhaps any existing hole isn’t big enough for that ?

If they’re really stuck you can buy a wiper puller. I’ve never needed to use one myself but it may be a last ditch solution

Yes, I have seen arb balls with a reduced circumferance…..

I/2” unf I think…

KD- knock down (ie not factory built)

the engine number is stamped on the block adjacent to the dipstick iirc

I would use blue medium strength thread lock on any fastening in the sump.Belt and Braces perhaps but the consequences of a fastening coming loose in the sump will probably be grave

You can fit two oil seals, one on top of the other. It might solve the problem as the second seal will run on an unused portion of the shaft…

Brian, it would foul your clamshell wings I think ( you do have clams I think). I fitted a similar one to my vx with clams and had to modify the wing to clear. Check….

Yes, that needs checking oily 👍

Here…

You need to have bolts made by ARP. I can’t remember whether they are marked but I have a few old ones which I can check tomorrow. If they are marked you will need to drop the sump to view them.

Just exhaling on the joint will give enough moisture. You don’t need a lot